Re: suspension and lowering | ![]() | ![]() | |
Re: Re: suspension and lowering -- Ward Frahler | Post Reply | Top of thread | Maverick Message Board |
Posted by: Ken Merring 12/16/2001, 13:54:56 |
:=Ward are these companies making dropped spindles to bolt on the Mav ? The stock Mav discs are 11" as is. Just a note that 14" wheels just fit without hitting the calipers on the 11" setup depending on the wheel offset. If larger than 11" then 15" wheels may be needed. Also while the suspension is off it's cheaper to cut 1 coil off the springs than to invest in spindles. Don't forget that you will end up with a large forward rake unless it's what you want and be looking at the under side of the car if there is exhaust hanging low. When lowering the rear with blocks, you will need to custom bend a brake adjusting tool (with heat) to be able to move it between the backing plate and the springs. And then there's the matter of front end alignment! :=Good luck, just done this. :=Ken .............................Ken, yes Fatman is making a direct bolt on spindle, here is there list. While it just says mustang in here they used to advertise maverick also so I called them and yes it will fit the mav. I didn't know that a stock mav had 11" brakes, they just told me that you have to use brake parts from a 75 to 80 Granada, I just assumed they were bigger, my mistake. Could you send me a picture of your lowered mav to w_frahler@msn.com Thank you for your time, Ward ............................... Thanks for the info on the dropped spindles. I feel that 2" drop is severe for this car but to each his own. I'm without a scanner now and ready to get a new computer. Still on windows 95 and small parellel bus scanners are not easy to find. Rule of thumb is 1 coil= 1" drop (v8 springs). I did 1-1/4 coil. My front wheel center to lip measures 12-1/4" with 235-60-14 tires Measure from the center of the wheel to the fender lip to get where you want the car to set, then the difference is what to take off the springs minus a 1/4" or so for driver weight if your going close to the tire. If you do it this way, use a cut off wheel to cut spring and if possible make a small straight on the end (with heat)like stock end has to set into the sadle correctly. Get new upper isolators if old one are shot, there cheap. If you go to far on spring cut, there are several thicknesses of isolators to raise back up. Take a good look at your upper control arms for wear. New ones with greaseable fittings complete with ball joint are only $70. When compressing spring use care so it dosen't come apart on you. I built a compressor because couldnot find one to rent or buy even from Auto Zone or Advance Auto. The spring must be comperessed evenly (straight) when going back in. Good luck,Ken |
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