Re: Replacement engine...  
Re: Replacement engine... -- Brian Post Reply Top of thread Maverick Message Board
Posted by: Fred H
12/20/2001, 18:44:22


Picked up a 5.0 roller motor out of an '88GT.
It has < 80k on it. Took the heads of to inspect them and the cylinders. Heads are gonna be reconditioned with new guides, springs, 3 angle, milled .030 etc.

The block is where I have some questions. There appears to be very little wear on the cylinder walls (can just BARELY feel a ridge), and can still see a cross-hatch pattern. I haven't checked the bore diameters yet, so I don't know for sure just how much they have worn.

Any guidelines to go by regarding the block?

My plan is to stick a Z-303 cam, FRPP timing set, Edelbrock Perf. RPM intake, Holley 650, Accel 300+ ignition and Crane roller rockers from my nuked engine ('69 302, carb screw into #2 cylinder, ugly), heddman headers, heddman x-pipe & flowtech afterburners (2 1/2"), 2800 rpm stall, C4 w/shift kit, 3.55 rear (usually drive every day in summer).

Any one have any suggestions?

Does anyone have any idea what kind of valve springs to use with that cam (specs: roller, 228 @.05, .552 lift, requires 120# seat pressure closed, and 340 @ .552 lift). About push rods, stock or longer than stock? (just hoping one of you guys out there have done a similar build up...)


Thanks,
Brian

Brian:

The combination sounds reasonably well balanced (the dual plane and small carb are good ideas). I would not put in any more camshaft than that without cylinder head porting. I would not use that cam unless it has at least 112 degrees of lobe separation (I think those SVO cams are 112-114). Any less and you will lose torque. The wider the l/s the wider the powerband will be and the more torque the engine will make as it will build more cylinder pressure.

Do not be afraid to mill the heads to gain compression. Most people say to keep compression between 9-9.5:1 for a daily driven car. I know from my own experience that you can safely run 10:1 on 93 pump gas with cast iron heads and not run into detonation problems (provided proper carb tuning and ignition timing). Compression=power. However, wehn milling the heads you must check for proper intake manifold alignment. Should not be any problems up to .050 mill.

One thing you MUST check before putting on the heads is valve to piston clearance. The combination of larger cam and milled heads will move the valves closer to the pistons. May not be an issue but needs to be checked.

Are you sure the ridge you feel is wear in the cylinder wall? An engine with that many miles will usually have carbon buildup above the top ring since there is nothing to scrape it off. It may be wear but I would check to make sure it is not a carbon deposit before I got too concerned about it.

To get the proper length pushrod, a valve train geometry check must be done. Milling and valve jobs can really affect the length of the pushrod needed.

As for the valve springs, assuming the cam manufacturer does not suggest one, you really need to know the installed height of the valves. This can only be done after the valve job is done. Too high installed height results in inadequate seat/nose pressure (although can be made up with shims). Too short installed height results in too much seat/nose pressure and can lead to premature can wear. There should be a ton of springs that fit your application.


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