I have a 250 3spd with one piece z bar. How do you remove it ? It's floppy at ball stud end. I removed clip from body mount side but it wasn't apparent how to get it free.
The bracket is on the framerail opposite the engine ball stud on top of the frame. You can access the two bolts with an long extension on a ratchet wrench. Here's a picture of the V8 bracket but it could be the same as a 6 cylinder bracket. You could probably just loosen the bolts to allow the bracket to move enough to free the z-bar. Hope this helps. Bruce
if reading your post correctly: . ... the ball mount bracket on frame rail has two fasteners to rail. remove the fasteners (and linkage) and Z-bar should pop right on out ... . .. at lower right: . . https://autokrafters.com/clutch-equ...-torino-1971-77-maverick-z-bar-c5az-7543ckit/ . https://autokrafters.com/mounting-b...e-side-clutch-equalizer-bar-z-bar-c5zz-7507a/ . Maverick with 170 six Z- Bar cut down and swapped into '61 Comet with the 250'. 250 at Z-bar is wider than '170/200 six, same as SBF . . . have 3 pedal fun
I believe so and, since it been awhile since I've removed mine, I'm wondering if you could just loosen the bracket sufficiently but left the bolt threads engaged so as to not have to find the bolt holes when reinstalling the bar and bracket. If I recall correctly, re-finding the bolt holes was the frustrating part of the whole process. Bruce
Loosen both bolts and remove the top closest to the ball stud, then you can swing bracket outwards, when reinstalling, swing back and install the top bolt, much easier to line up! If you access from under the car, put on safety glasses and dust mask, nothing worst than getting dirt/grease into your eyes etc......I used a short boxed in 9/16" wrench to loosen the 2 bolts. David
Well that went south. Bolt nearest firewall came about half way before captured nut became uncaptured. Can't get bolt out or tight. Bar still won't clear. I'll try again when I have time. Probably going to unscrew block stud to get bar free. Fixing the bolt issue is a challenge
Sorry to hear about bolt, did you manage to remove the other bolt? After thought and probably should have mentioned earlier, when removing any bolt/nut, spray with penetrating oil, then try and loosen fastener, do not force if it starts to tighten up, turn it back and forth, otherwise if you keep on going, as you found out the capture nut broke free from the frame rail and you probably will have to cut the bolt head off so that the nut will fall free. Depending on how bad the hole is, you might be able to install one of those threaded inserts. On all my Mav/Comets that had the frame brackets, I was forunate enough that I had no problem removing the bolts.......keep us posted on how things go David note: one thing to try, if you can wedge a flat blade screwdriver or crowbar between the bracket and frame rail, apply a small amount of upward pressure to take up all the slack, try and see if you can tighten the bolt. I can't remember how nut is secured, some are crimped within the hole or have square flats, by taking up all the slack, sometimes the nut will lock itself back into the hole and at least you can tighten back the bolt/bracket.......
Bolt was not tight, loosened it mostly by finger. Used a wrench and never felt any real resistance. I think the nut had rusted and was already loose. It's not possible to get much torque with a stubby in there anyway. I already tried the screwdriver trick. I totally removed front bolt, no problem. Still did not clear z bar. This is my daily driver so I put it back together for now
So, I was able to unscrew stud out of block and remove equalizer bar. Got greased and installed. Still sounds terrible. I swapped the rod from equalizer to fork with a spherical rod end because hole was egged. Pedal is smoother but still something crunchy feeling. Problem has to be with fork. It has new throwout bearing and retainer looked ok. Can I gey grease in the fork pivot without pulling trans ?
Just to follow up. The culprit was throwout bearing sticking. I removed fork boot and put a dab of grease on bearing retainer. after a couple dozen cycles it smoothed up.
That was a common problem on earlier T-5 that had the aluminum front bearing retainer. What happened it would "score" impeding throw out bearing movement. Grease helped but usually required bearing and retainer replacement.
