Hello, This is my first post so please be patient. I have a Ford 302 and live in Florida where its hot most of the year. I currently have a 195 thermostat and and old style radiator and engine drive fan. The car constantly runs at 200-205. But when stopped in traffic it obviously goes higher. I am putting in a new auminum radiator and a pusher fan on a control switch to go with the engine fan. I am going to change the thermostat at the same time. I was going to put in a 160, but i have been getting some opinions that a 180 is better because the 160 will not let the coolant stay in the radiator long enough to cool. I'm confused by this because the flow rate will be the same for both the 160 and 180. Any recomendations or experiences with a 160 thermostat. Thanks!!
welcome abord. i think you'll be fin with the 160. you might want to flush the block too make sure you dont have crap clogging the watr passageways
thermo 160-180 no real difference in my opinion. It only addresses the temp at which the valve (thermostat) opens. Once its opens (and it will stay open) the flow rate would really be the only thing to have any effect on how long the water stays in the radiator, ie . how fast or slow it moves thru the radiator. And also consider that the longer it stays in the radiator being cooled , in theory the longer the rest stays in the block absorbing even more heat.... chicken or the egg???
The only time you have issues with coolant flowing too quickly is when you go without a stat. Having a stat in place is all you need to regulate coolant flow. I run a 160 year round here in P'cola.
Use 180 not a 160.You need the heat to cook off moisture and acids that collect in the oil from combustion.Definitely flush your cooling system/block before you install that shiny new radiator.Are you useing a fan shroud now??? If not you need to get one on there it will greately enhance your radiators cooling efficiency.A pusher fan is not as efficient as a puller,due to the fact that it sits in front of the radiator inhibiting air flow through the core.How ever the difference in effectiveness is minimal.But with the difference between running fine and running hot being measured in a few degrees this way or that its worth mentioning.You can try it both ways and see for your self if one is better than the other.Hope this helps you,good luck.
Yeah lots of heat there to begin with.Moisture though.Have you ever had a moisture problem in your oil down there with all the moisture 411??? just curious.
I like you doing the pusher with the engine fan! Are you going to turn on yourself or have engine temp control your electric fan? 160 should be good for all you warmer boys
I am going to run the pusher fan with an on\off switch under the dash. I want it to be a secondary fan for those really hot days and when caught in traffic. I'm not using a shroud at the moment. I have to get the new radiator in and see what kind of room i have to work with. Its a new engine block with aluminum heads and approx 500 miles on it. I'm "hoping" that its not clogged or there isnt a flow problem. I will flush it just to be sure. I went aluminum for the radiator after reading how it disipates heat better. I figure with radiator, addtional fan and 160 thermostat I will be able to handle the 90 degree and high humidity temps. We do have some cold spells though. Any concern the engine might run too cool at times?
Well it looks like you florida guys dont need the higher heat T-stat.A 160 T-stat will give plenty of heat during those uh "cold spells"I just keep wondering about moisture in your oil.
My cars never run 160 unless it's a cooler day and the car is going down the highway. Otherwise, they run 180-190 around town, with the 160 stat. Never noticed a moisture problem. I should see some 'milkshake' somewhere, right?
Always always always always run a fan shroud. Even if it's just a small one, it's an absolute necessity. Put one on your pusher fan as well. In every cooling problem I've ever heard of or seen, air flow, NOT water flow, was the problem. People running without fan shrouds, or radiators full of bugs and dirt and crap. On later model cars, the air dam that is directly below the radiator and looks like it serves no purpose is also a critical part. The other way you know that air flow is your problem is that the car cools down when you're driving down the road. If it was a water problem, it would only get hotter as you drove down the road. If you are over-heating, putting in a cooler stat won't help out anything. It'll just open a little earlier. The only time a t-stat fixes anything is if it's actually broken. Use distilled water to fill your coolant system. No minerals or chlorine or any junk like that in there. Your aluminum parts will thank you.
After you flush the block, you might filter the inlet for a while after you put it together. You can do this using regular household screen. I had a cooling problem on my '73. It has a 4 core and a pusher fan. I had to flush the radiator due to junk. After I flushed it and the block, I used a screen to collect more material from the block. I had to clean it out a few times before it ran clean. That will keep that new alum radiator clean. As far as the fan goes, you can buy a fan controller from Autozone for about $30. Its a cool little solid state, adjustable controller that will run two fans and has provisions for A/C. I have one on my car and love it.
