I have never cracked open a 200, or any other I6 for that matter. What are some high points that I need to pay particular attention to, if any? I have built some v8s, so I am not completely without knowledge. Just looking for info on any problems/peculiarities that are unique to the 200. Also, if YOU were building a 200 to be a tough/reliable driver, what areas would you modify or improve over stock? Would you replace the camshaft and/or lifters out of an abundance of caution? Or would you let the cam/lifters ride if there was no indication of impending failure? I am not talking a cam other than stock, but would not rule out an RV cam, even though performance improvement is not priority. Here is what I am looking at: Rings Pistons (if overbore is needed) All bearings Turn crank (if required) Pins (if new pistons required) Resize rod pin end (if new pistons) Resize big end (no matter what) Hone (no matter what) Valve job Springs Oil pump Timing chain All gaskets What am I forgetting? Would you bother line boring/main resizing? If the block needs bored, I intend to get it boiled, which will get it new freeze plugs and cam bearings. Otherwise, these items will probably ride. Thoughts? Also... All the headers I see say that they don't work with A/C. Are there any that do? Have you modded a set to work with your A/C? Thanks! Dave
Dave, can't help you with your questions but if you get into it and find that you need some parts I have one that came out of a 71 Mav and only had 55K original miles on it. Unfortunately the engine got filled with water during Katrina. I haven't taken it apart and don't intend to. I'll probably give it to a junk man soon unless somebody else wants it. It's free for anybody that might want it.
That's interesting. That engine should have forged steel rods... Not a big deal except the block I am working on is an 81, so it has later 'alternative' material rods. They experimented with cast iron and cast steel the last couple years of production. Not supposed to be as light or strong as the forged steel used for so many years earlier. I don't know which mine has, I haven't opened it yet. That's coming sometime this summer. Also, the engine has been replaced with a factory remanned unit in the past, so there is no telling what is actually there. I hope they kept the 81 head. That is the best year for US heads.
just in case, i got a 200 parts engine. bought a parts car last yr and it was in it, half way torn apart. if u need something then lemme know. oh, and i also have a complete 170 as well, still in a car. btw, i know the 6cyl guys are big on the '78-up heads because they flow better, or find a 170 head for better compression. and if it was me, i'd go with an RV cam, 2v conversion, header and electronic ignition. that's about all you need on a good driving 6 popper. and if u keep the stock head, have it milled about .030 or so to help on ur compression a bit
By all means replace the cam, lifters, springs and look real close at the rockers and shaft (replace with adjustable). Make sure the engine deck is flat and that the head mounting surface is flat too. Because they are so long they tend to warp. You could go with a mild RV cam and get a bit more power but whether you do that or use a stock grind I would recommend that you have the intake log milled for a flat two barrel carb adapter, mill the hole out oval for the adapter, and mount a Ford two barrel from a 1969 302 on it. If you replace the pistons, talk to your machinist about bringing the compression up to 9.5:1. The will help power and economy. Have the engine dynamically balanced (closer tolerances than factory) and the engine will feel completely different.
I am doing some checking into prices, and I6 stuff/machining is EXPENSIVE! I wonder if I'd be cheaper replacing it with a 302.
Paul... For the street, can an 81 C4 behind a 200 be swapped to a 302 bell? I'm pretty sure it can, but I just wanted to check. I know it is a bit weaker tranny than a 302 part, but this isn't a performance build.
Ratio, You can change the bellhousing, converter and flexplate to 302 parts and the transmission will bolt up just like any other C4. HOWEVER: The 200 C4 has only 3-4 clutches in the forward pack and 2-3 in the direct pack. compare that to the 250 and V8 C4 with 5 and 4 clutches respectively. That is a 25% drop in power handling. BIG NOTE: 81 is not a C4 - its a C5. Swap over to the V8 bell, converter and it should be OK. I believe the C5s all have the V8 parts inside. Add a cooler to the one in the radiator and if you want some fun with it install a 71 or later C4 valve body and a TransGo 40-2 kit. It will take months to get the smile off your face.
The engine/tranny is out of an 81 Fairmont. How do I tell for sure it is a C5? That tranny didn't have the big bellhousing? Did it look just like a C4? Where can I pick up a good C4 valve body? How hard is the shift kit install? Would this be a good mod even if I end up going back in with the 200? Thanks Paul!
Ratio, Too many questions at once.... The pan on a C5 is deeper than the C4 (close to 1 3/4" deep) The C5 replaced the C4 but the cases look the same (internal mods) Try Broader Performance (you should be able to get one with the TransGo kit installed) Hand tools and a drill is all you need and it comes with step by step instructions. If you buy it from Jay at Broader, you can get his recommendations for additional mods - similar to my own. The kit will make the C4/C5 last twice as long, run cooler and shift better providing you with a mileage gain if you don't drive it the way it feels best - AT WIDE OPEN THROTTLE!
