do anybody make a soild motor mount for a 72 grabber or can i go with a motor plate and who would i contact for plate
I just drill a hole and run a grade 8 bolt through the 2 plates in the mount. Ties them together, and if you finish it off with a locking nut, you can adjust how much 'give' the mount has.
why do you want a solid mount? i run just the regular stock mounts and have run in the 11's. i haven't had any problems. how much HP you got?
No. A solid trans mount will break the tranny tailshaft if used with stock engine mounts. The engine will twist, then the tranny will bind, then 'snap' goes the tailshaft because that is where it is binding. If the engine had to move, they wouldn't use solid engine mounts or engine plates. You can however use solid engine mounts with a stock tranny mount.
S&w has nice engine plates, My old Maverick ran 10.30s only had front 1/4 in aluminum plate, no mid plate, and stock rear tranny mount. Never had a problem,, always on my mind though! Also at that time I had a stock c-4 bell housing. I know guys at the track with solid mounts all the way around,,no problems and other guys broke trannys till they put flex in tranny mount. Always make sure you have good dowel pins in the engine to bell housing! That does create problems with them missing or loose! My new car has 1/4" front and mid plate with rubber tranny mount. That's the way I like it. Not saying it has to be that way, just seems the best for me.
A guy with a sweeet 500hp (dyno'd) '68 Chevelle who has broken about 5 transmissions from running solid mounts. When he finally changed to rubber mounts, 'never broke a tranny again. I see "Ratio's" point though. The tranny mount was probably the culprit....
No need to now. I think I have it figured out. You're actually drilling a hole through all three plates in the SUPPORT (yes, there are three plates in mine) and one in the MOUNT? I would think that the hole in the mount would have to be fairly over-sized (3/6" or so) to prevent any binding in the "axial" direction. Am I close?
Autoworks International (619-401-6900) makes a motor mount (similar to the Ron Morris Motor mount for Mustangs) that was designed for the Mavericks. This uses a captive bushing, like is used in spring perches, for vibration dampening but is designed so that the motor can be moved fore and aft as well as side to side for aligning the engine in the bay. These cannot come apart allowing the motor to "rock" like a failed rubber mount. http://www.mustangsplus.com/catalog/engine_07.pdf on page 282. I will have a set of these at Knotts Berry Farm if anyone is interested. Autoworks has a list price of $199 for these. And, no, I do not work for Autoworks. I do, however, hang out there and have convinced him to make some interesting parts for my car that may be interesting to other people.
