Hey guys, after wresting with myself and reading alot of threads on here, I finally decided what I'm going to do to increase the power of my mav. since this is the first car i have ever tampered with, im going to start fairly small. I was really hoping to get some good suggestions from some people that know what theyre doing as far as which parts you guys would recommend. Heres what i need: 1.) Headers/dual exhaust 2.)Electronic ignition. 3.)Dual plane aluminum intake and a 600 cfm 4 bbl carb what would you guys recommend as a good combination for all these parts. I am looking forward to getting started on this as soon as I figure out what I should buy. I'm thinking in the medium to medium high price range. Thanks for your help. Sean
Oh, and I need some advice on which brakes you guys think are the best because I guess Ill probably wanna stop this thing at some point. Thanks
those are great projects for a first timer. i recomend a edelbrock performer rpm intake or weiand stealth intake. im a fan of holey double pumper carbs. they have always given me the best power. you difintly want to stay with a 600 cfm one. headers are a real pain to install so you may want to hold off but if your feeling like doing a big job then more power to you. i would probly go with the doug thorly shorty headers. they may be easeir to install than long tubes. as for mufflers im a fan of flowmasters. for eletronic ignition you have lots of options. msd is definity the most poplular. for just starting out like you are now you would be fine switching to the ford duraspark set up. the simplest ignition upgrade you can do to get away from points is a pertronix conversion on you stock distrubor. it just installs in place of the points in the distrubor and you can get it for well under 100 bucks
i installed a willwood disk brake kit on my mav. it was really easy and its definly alot beter than puting stock type disks on. you can use your drum brake spindles. just get the kit for a 70 mustang. cost wise its probly just a little bit more than what you would spend on a stock set up when you put new calipers rotors and bearings in it.
Intake? Ford A321, Performer RPM, Weiand Stealth, the old F4B, Torker twisted carb, Cobra high rise. Carb? Holley 570 SA, or their list 80783 650 VS carb. Ignition, any of the electronic modules for points replacement, I've used the Pertronix I & II, plus the Crane XR-1, they're all good. Just use a hotter coil and good wires with it.
if you get full length headers you'll need a p/s drop bracket if you have p/s ive got full lengths on mine and they fit really well. ive had them on and off a few times and im so good at it now i can just jack the car up and slide both sides up without undoing the motor mounts
I agree with New, Hooker 6901's are easy to install but you will need a P/S drop bracket. they cost about $15 as I remember
I dont know what a p/s drop bracket is. also, can someone tell me what the "4 bbl" in 4 bbl carb means. heres what i was thinking about getting. let me know if this sounds like a good idea: Edelbrock performer series 600 cfm carb with an Edelbrock RPM Airgap 302 dual plane aluminum intake manifold. is the performer series card a 4bbl carb? thats what i was looking at. all told it should run me about $725 brand new. does that sound like a good price? they have to order it so i gotta go down and put a deposit on it tomorrow. if it seems like a ripoff someone let me know. What is the significance of a double pumper carb? what does that do for you that a nom-double pumper doesnt? brand new I was quoted $411 for that. is that about right?
i tend to go more towards holley carbs myself a 600 holley would probably suit that motor fine. theres members here running 650's dp's in 302s whith much better breathing heads and cams then your stock motor. a 600 would probably give you better throttle responce too the intake sounds good tho. if you want to save a few bucks tho thats probably a little more intake then a stock motor will need see what craigslist and other local swapmeets might have to offer on intakes. theyre expensive new and you can usually pick up used ones for 1/2 of what they cost new. maybe even post up a wanted ad here theres a ram that moves your steering linkage back and forth under the car on the drivers side. it bolts to the drivers side frame. the bracket lowers that mountong point to clear the headers. its cheap and not a big deal to install
As with what newtoford stated, used intakes go for about half what a new one does. Great thing about em is they don't wear out. Very few get milled to match milled heads. A few will get corrosion in the coolant ports. Some neanderthals get happy with wrenchs and will strip or break the bolt bosses. Other than these things (these are easy to spot, with the exception of milling) there's nothing wrong with buying used. A 4 bbl carb has 4 carb throats (bbls) The air gap will work for you, but maybe not with that carb. I'm a Holley guy myself, either one of the two I listed will work with your motor and the airgap. Steer clear of a double pumper carb. These are really only intended to be used on the race track, and 99% of the time the gas mileage with em sucks. A double pumper Holley has mechanical secondaries, and every time you nail the go pedal, four streams of fuel get squirted down into the motor, that and they're jetted to be rich, are the reasons you don't want one. Just me but $725 is a bit steeper than I'd pay for an intake and carb, or at least the ones you listed. I paid $1100 for the triple two bbl intake and carbs for my 331.
The Edelbrock performer manifold is designed for an engine that breathes to about 5500 rpm. it is more manifold than a stock cam can use but it also works well at speeds as low as 4500 which will complement your stock cam just fine (with some room for a cam that has about 214 SAE duration). Small tube headers (if you can find them (between 1 1/2 and 1 5/8" primaries will also flow well enough for a stock cammed engine and match the intake that you have. A Holley model 1850 (if you like manual choke) or the Holley 80457 (electric choke) will also work perfectly with the intake, cam and headers and will allow for the same cam upgrade. They can be purchased with either universal linkage or the Ford linkage with the kick-down for the C4. They are 600 CFM vacuum secondary carbs set up from Holley for 300 - 350 cubic inch engines. The 650 carbs, big tube headers and Performer RPM manifold are better suited to an engine that will turn 6000 - 6500 rpm and produce power from 3000 to 6500. You will be a lot happier with an engine that has excellent throtle response and runs well under all conditions giving you the most out of what you have than you will with the right to brag about the parts you have on your engine even though you have to fight off idle holes and rich running that does nothing for performance but wastes gas everytime you try to go anywhere. There is a place for each part of the total engine and it all has to match. Start with your cam and match the rest of your components to it. That way you will have an engine that is easy to live with and cheap to feed.
so paul, are you saying that the performer manifold is too much for the stock engine? if so what would you recommend? i do like the edelbrock both because ive heard good things and i personally like the look of them once installed. is there another model of edelbrock manifolds that you think would be more practical? do you think that a holley carb would be more compatible with the edelbrock manifold than a edelbrock carb? on another note, I was on the flowmaster website today and i tried to put in the year make and model of my mav and it wasnt possible. are there compatibilty issues with flowmaster? what gives? also paul, i sent you a private message with some questions i have if you wouldnt mind hekping me out. thanks
Not at all, the performer is a good choice for an engine with a stock cam. That manifold comes with bolt patterns for both carbs and it really doesn't care which carb sits on top. If you prefer the Edelbrock carb then use it. I just prefer the carb s I have had schooling on - Holley. They both do a good job of mixing the air and fuel properly and it might be cheaper to get the package all from Edelbrock - so go with what fits your budget and personal preference. Don't use a Holley just because someone mentions it. The two numbers I mentioned will fit you application without a problem but Edelbrock will sell you the right one for the package you buy. Lots of guys use the Flow Master mufflers. You don't need to have any more information other than the size of the tube that you are using on your exhaust and the size of the tube on the back side of the muffler. No compatibility problems - they only make complete systems for newer cars. When you runn headers you put 2 1/2" tubes on it for the rest of the exhaust and get a series 40 with 2 1/2" inlet and outlet. I answered your PM and provided my e-mail address for any future questions.
The Performer intakes are simply aluminum versions of the stock iron 4 bbl intakes (as in the 60's 289/302 4 bbl intake) and the early 80's 02 HO 4 bbl intake. The RPM's, Stealth and the A321 style intakes offer the same performance as the Performer and stock intakes, but give an added boost in breathing room up to 6500 rpms. Plus they allow you to do further upgrades to the engine without having to go and buy another intake. There's no sense in buying a Performer intake if you even have a glimmer of hope in doing further upgrades.
are the manifolds that come stock on the 302 just dual plane iron intakes? you make it sound as if switching to dual plane aluminum heads provides no benefit. It that truly the case?
