I get the intake gaskets for a 91 5.0 they are the molded rubber ones for the end peices and all i have to do is put a dab of sillycone at the corners. I just end up with a extra gasket that would be for the plentum to manifold that I just end up throwing away, the price is about the same too. That is the same motor I asked for when i got my oil pan gasket its a 1 peice rubber so none of that 3 peice glue it together and hope it seals for anymore.
my 2 pennies don't use blue or red silicone. blue is usually only for coolant/water and low torque apps. Red is just a high temp version of blue. either one is not very oil resistant. permatex ultra grey (oil resistant/high torque) and permatex ultra black (oil/gas resistant) is what I use for nearly everything. If you feel like spending a couple of extra dollars GM has a grey silicone they seal there transfer cases with (sorry PN# is at work) that works for pretty much all apps. most companies these days are using this or something similar instead of gaskets for all kinds of things.
I never use silicone any more but if you must, then clean both surfaces with laquer thinner and let them dry before putting the silicone on. If you use any rubber cement or sealer the oil will likely dislve it and then start leaking. I use Loc-tite or Permatex #518 flange sealer with all gaskets - cork included. The guide pins is a great idea - use it.
Everybody is posting to put sealer on the corners but nobody mention to be sure you use sealer around the water passage area on both sides of the gasket. Studs will insure the manifold will sit flat without moving the end gaskets. I perfer Permatex #2 over any silicone.
Just did mine last week. I used Grey. No gasket on the ends just a thick bead let it sit for 15 to 20 min first. Then the intake, torked it down and let it sit overnight. No issues.
I jsut used the mustang gaskets. The neoprene gaskets even have little tabs to hold them in place. Just a dab of blue on the corners and no issues. Thanks for the tip Markso125
