Is it heating up on cross streets or freeway? How cool of a t-stat you running? Cooler t-stat is not always the answer ESP here in AZ. It just lets the water run in circles and never sit in radiator to be cooled by airflow. So once the stat is open it stays open, water never gets a chance to cool down. And water just keeps getting hotter and hotter A 180 degree stat is only 15-20 degrees above ambient road temps. ITS freakins blazing hot out here in middle of summer, esp on blacktop. LOL Also IMO them autozone, checkers, pep boys fans NEVER pull the CFM there suppose too. Like noted above tauras, mark 8, on sn-95 is a good fan alternative. But running one of these fans almost always means a 3g alternator upgrade is needed as well. These fan setups pull ALOT of juice. my mustang runs 205 all day long, thats where the factory wants it to run I see no problem with that. Also when above 40 or so the fan could still be on stopping the airflow across radiator, thats why factory cars turn them off at certain speeds. What PSI radiator cap? How old is it? IMO a good t-stat, flex fan, shroud, and proper fan spacing is probably all you need. Maybe some duct work to keep air flowing across radiator and not around always helps as well.
Understand first that a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and a 13 pound pressure cap will not allow the coolant to boil before it gets to 235 F. Running a 180 F thermostat only keeps the coolant from being cooler than 180 F. If a car gets warmer at an idle - in traffic - than it is on the freeway then you ned more fan or a shroud (or both). If it gets too warm on the freeway but not idling in traffic then you need more radiator or the engine flushed. The ideal situation would be to have a radiator and fan big enough to keep your engine cooler than 180F all the time and then block off portions of the radiator to just that point where the coolant stayed at 180 or a few degrees above that point. On the street when you drive under all kinds of different conditions that is not practical so you have to keep the engine warm enough in the winter without allowing it to overheat in the summer. Old radiators get clogged - you need to keep them clean or have them rodded out to clear the tubes. Rust can build up in the engine's cooling passages if you don't keep the coolant protected with new antifreeze or anti-corrosion additives. all of this can add to overheating problems. In your case it sounds like you need more cooling air going through the radiator but it could also be that the radiator is not completely clean. You might want to take it to a radiator shop and have it inspected to see if it can be rodded out. If not then a Champion radiator might be a good choice as a replacement. They are inexpensive and have a money back guarantee. (I don't know any other radiators that come with that kind of support.
In summation.......... A: Not enough fan. Not by a long shot. B: You need a shroud. Period. No matter what size fan. Shroud!!! C: If these two don't cure the problem have your radiator checked or go with a new one. D: Make sure your hoses are in good shape and not collapsing. E: You were making a checklist of all these recommendations as the thread moved along......right????
yes i have been making a check list and all the info has been very helpful. my car seems to run hottest on inter state 17 ( for all you guys out here in az) it does okay not good, until I get on the newly laid asphalt. I can feel the temp difference right away when I get on it. (no a/c on comet) and it doesnt take long, maybe 1.5 mls and its "running hot". thermostat is 195, and yes I did have to replace one hose all the others are fresh and in very good shape..... 200.00 bucks for the "champion radiator"? that definately in my price range. will one the above fans and shrowds work with radiator? I dont mind making mods to make something work and still look good. I have a welder and access to what ever I need. I guess what I'm saying is it doesnt have to remain stock AS LONG AS IT STAYS FORD! thanx again for all the help guys. I will let you all know what I did and how it works out.
Hye man go back to Advance ask them for a product called Ice water.It is in a black and purple can the size of a marvel mystry oil can,flush out your whole system then follw the directions on the can.I have used this stuff in a mud truck that ran around 210-220 degrees and was told to use this and when i put it in no kidding it stayed at 170-180 all the time.Make sure though during the winter you drain and flush the system to put regular anti-freeze in it for the Ice water will freeze i made that mistake once and it cracked the block. This is some great stuff and will still use it today.
Why u running 195 stat in that hot climate? I know it's not for the heater.I don't think these old cars need more than 180.
I was told by parts guy it was fords recomended thermostat for this car. Years ago all I ever ran was 180. This is the first old car I've owned in a very long time. Had a 94 mark 8. I miss that car. Realy cool driver!
I live in the north so I've always used a 190 or 195 thermostat on everything I've owned 180 barely melts the ice off and is luke warm at best in the winter.
Look at it this way................ thermostat opens at 180, well ambient temps off of roads down here are 150ish............... SOOOOO the t-stat is only opening 30 degrees above ambient (So with a small temp difference it takes more air across radiator to maintain that temp).......... Well what happens then is t-stat stays open MOST the time, well the radiator is not doing its job then cause the coolant is just running around in circles and building MORE heat cause its not spending anytime in the radiator to DISIPATE the heat........... So running a "cooler t-stat" is not always the answer. A thermostat needs to open and close to maintain engine temps, not stay open or stay closed. Hope that makes sense. To the OP, sounds like your on the right track................. Normally when they heat up on the freeway its due to a clogged or ineffecient radiator or lack of airflow. A new radiator, some duct work, or a air dam would all be a benefit. Add in an electric mark viii fan a 130g alt upgrade and never have a problem again. Then you can get you some A/C
Have you actually checked the temperature with a manual gauge or is this like you say "I can feel it getting warm after a few miles"?
About a week after I bought the car I put gages in it and a tach. (don't like using lights to let me know what's going on inside the motor) I haven't used a thermol sensor yet, but I'm assuming the gages are close. that was back in april. I'm doing alot traveling for work right now so I don't get alot of time to work on it and really check it all out.
Until you know what the actual temp is - you really don't know whether you have an over-heating problem. If it is puking and steaming that might be over-temp or pressure from combustion getting into the cooling system.
Just put a new 4 core aluminum radiator in today. Seems to be working. I'll take it to Sadona this week and see if stays "running cool".
Pong I did a tech artical on triming and installing a taurus fan . And will have a new style controler soon . Jay In az you need all the air flow you can get to keep your engine cool. The taurus fan has around 3000-4000 cfm . My fan will run on low speed in the driveway at 100 deg. air temp and will keep eng. temp at 185 deg. with a/c on. Jay
