thats what i was thinking too i know the first time i went to take it down the road it didnt shift turned around and i forgot to hook up the vacuum line to the trans but i double checked it all ill put my vacuum gauge on it and see what it pulls
I have always undestood that the external coolers are to be in addition to going through the radiator..
OK, my haynes manual says 175. But search the internet, and some guys say it takes as much as 400 to get the sleeve to crush.
its not about a torque pound rating to torque the nut to. when they refer to that, its the possible effort need to crush the crush sleeve. pinion bearings are like front wheel bearings on our cars. they need to set to just the right preload or they will wear out and cause other problems. here is how i do pinion bearings. i will grease the bearings with a good axle bearing grease. assemble the pinion assembly. use the old pinion nut to crush the crush sleeve. put grease on the flanged surface of the nut. not doing this will cause the flange to gal on the splines of the yoke and never be able to be tightened enough. now i use a 1/2" ingersol rand impact gun rated at 550 ft/bs at 90 psi. my air system is at 140 psi. i will hold the yoke and tighten the nut down. i stop as it gets close to being tight. i sneak up on it. i check the rolling resistance by turning the pinion by hand. once you get the crush sleeve down the rolling resistance will start to increase. now this is the tricky part. you need to not over tighten the crush sleeve. i pay attention to the socket on my impact gun as it relates to the yoke as i tighten it. remember that every bit of turn on the nut tightens the preload on the bearings. i will do just a momentary hit of the impact gun on the nut so it only turns a few degrees at a time. i keep checking the rotational resistance on the pinion yoke with an inch pound torque meter. with new bearings im looking for 20 to 24 inch lbs of rolling resistance or with used bearings im looking for 15 to 18 inch lbs. once its reaches the proper resistance i will use a new pinion nut and put it on and recheck the rolling resistance. the pinion nut is a crimp type nut and can only be used once. after that its crimp will be ruined and will back off. so i figure im using about $1500 worth of tools, between the compressor, impact gun, socket and torque meter to do it right.
the rear end im going to have to wait and find someone to look at it since i dont know exactly what im doing. ha yea i just have a cheap $200 2.5hp harbor freight compressor and the cheapest craftsman impact wrench rated at 300ft/lbs at 4.5 cfm 90psi and my compressor can barely do that. i went out there today its a hot one but i looked and did this. checked the timing and its on tdc and set at 8degrees. not sure about total timing didnt have anyone to come hold the gas at 3000rpms to see. i let it warm up in the garage fan is on the whole time. took 15mins to warm up to 225 at which it started to blow water. and i cut it out but everytime ( did this 3 times ) it would warm to 190 and this drop rapidly to 170 and slowly warm back up. so i know the thermostat is opening but i guess the question is if its opening fully? i tried to riching the carb but no luck so i lowered the gap on the plugs to .040 and it definitely sounds better and the plugs now look like this should a light brownish color.
I have always run mine through the radiator then to the cooler. My understanding is if you drive in the cooler climates it helps to get the trans up to operating temps quicker. My GTO ran 11.80s and I never had trans temp problems. Never tried to run one as a stand alone unit though.
8*BTDC is retarded. Set it to 12-16, or as high as you can and still not get pinging on accelleration on the fuel you're running. As for richening the carb, how did you go about doing that ? With the mixture screws ? If you did, that only enrichened the idle mixture, the main metring circuit is the mixture you're shooting for. And for that, you need to be able to drive it. Idling in the driveway just doesn't cut it. Does your lower radiator hose have a spring inside it ?
I'm running two external coolers with no cooler in the radiator. As long as the cooler is big enough, you don't need anything going thru the radiator.
Ok that ill bump the timing up a little more. And I know I need to get out and drive her toget it adjusted better. Yes I do have a sprng in the lower radiator hose I have a new one but it doesn't hve a spring and don't know the trick to get the old out? So I'm usingthe stock hose with the spring but I'm wondering it that getting sucked up and slowing down the water pump?
I have seen springs rust away to nothing, and that said, I could see one rusting down to where small or large pieces could break off and float around. You would think the antifreeze additives would protect the steel better than that. You can spend a little more cash and get a firm metal hose, that not only never collapses, but acts sorta as a radiator while hot water is running through it.
