I pulled this stuff out to make room for my headers. I'm not sure what they are or if I need Them? I'm still learning so I appreciate any input.
You must have an AC car. The black round thing is your vacuum canister. This is what holds the engine vacuum so that your heater doors will actuate. Or in other words if you dont have that hooked up and you need your heater the only thing you are going to get is the defrost. Now I say that you have an AC car because the cars without AC use cables to actuate the heater doors. The blue thing is your charcol canister and it captures fuel vapors and prevents them from escaping to the atmosphere and then stores the fumes and recycles them to the fuel tank or engine intake. So yeah put them both back your car will use them.
as always...I have an A/C '73 that didn't have the black can....doors work fine. also myself and others have removed the blue can...just put a plug on the end of the line. Frank...
Thank you, I do want to put the AC back in the car, but I'm not that concerned about the heater because I live in So Cal. Any suggestions on if i need both for the AC, or is one for the AC and one for the heater?
LIke Frank said, you don't need either for heater/AC doors to work. I have an AC car, both have been removed, and no problems. I believe the vacuum can, with a check valve, is their to maintain enough vacuum in reserve to operate the heater/ac controls when accelerating and engine vacuum is low. It will all work fine as soon as you let up on the accelerator.
As mentioned above, the blue one is the charcoal cannister that attaches to a line coming from the gas tank. It catches fumes as you fill the tank or gas in the tank expands as it warms. If you leave it off, you should do something to prevent fumes from coming into the engine compartment thru the open line. If you cap the line, use a vented gas cap or search for Mavaholics instructions on how to vent your unvented cap.
But you have to have the lines that go thru the firewall hooked to some source of vacuum, or you'll just have the air coming out the defrost vents in the top of the dash. If you want the damper moving every time you step on the gas, you'll be fine.
That hasn't been a problem for me. Never noticed it if its happening. There are three vacuum lines coming thru the firewall on my car. One is the main source of vacuum for the heater/ac controls. Yes, that one has to be connected to the manifold for the heater controls to work. The other two go to the heater control valve that was on the firewall. I removed the control valve and plugged the other two lines.
All that's really needed here is to run a vacuum hose straight to the air cleaner and leave the canister off. I ran my V8 Ranger for years like this. Any fumes that find their way to the aircleaner will be sucked into the engine the instant you start the car. Then again, living in Kalifornia, he may need the canister to pass inspection.
But you do have to plug off the line that went to the black can or the damper doors will not work....because you will have a vacuum leak.
That is interesting. On my 1976 4-door, I have all the vacuum lines hooked up correctly, and I have the black vacuum can hooked up. With the AC on, and when I step on the gas, the AC switches to the defrost vents. Let off the gas....it switches back. It is very noticeable.
That's not what I said, all I'm saying is you just can't rip it out and be done, you have to reconnect the system to a vacuum source for it to work. I would think everyone would have different results depending on the vacuum their engine produces, different cams will do different things.
I'll have to pay close attention and see if that's happening on mine. Might not have noticed 'cause I rarely have the blower on more than low. Is your check valve working?
