Is this wire safe? Do I need the link?

Not sure exactly what the wire is, and don't really care. It was hooked to the solenoid, and will be again once I reroute it.

My question is should it be so soft, and can I cut that bump out of it?

It is fairly large gauge, and fairly stiff, but the last 6 or 8 inches, where the color darkens, it is very soft and pliable. Almost feels like rubber rather than stiff plastic.

Is that safe?

That black bump about 12 inches up... is that a fusible link, and can I cut it off?

If I need one, I can put in another further up, since I won't be needing the last 3 feet or more of this wire once it is rerouted.

 

that is a fusible link. its pretty important. usually if they are soft and rubbery they have already blown. you can check it with an ohm meter or see if it has power going through the wire with a battery, test light or voltmeter.
it should have nearly no resistance.
its the main power supply wire for the car. the section of wire that is rubbery is the actually fusible link not the plastic bump. it can be replaced with some sort of fuse like a maxi fuse. it should have the amperage rating molded into the plastic bump. that would the rating for the new fuse you use.
also consider that if you add more electrical components electric fans and fuel pumps that you should provide them with a new fused power supply from the battery.

 

OK, will be cutting that all off and updating it.

Thanks for the quick response!

It says "Fusible link 16 Ga" but no amperage rating. Any idea what sized inline fuse I could use?

 

i would guess a 60 amp maxi fuse would work. thats about what the stock alternator was rated at so there shouldn't be more load than that.

 

Cool! Thanks!

 

The cover is rubber vs plastic on most wires, it's supposed to be soft...


Easiest way to test is pull on it, if the rubber stretches it's bad... If it passes the stretch test, it's still a good idea to ohm it out with a meter to be sure the electrical crimps aren't corroded but the stretch test will weed out 99% of the bad ones...

 

It starts out hard, like plastic, and the further toward the terminal end you get, the softer it gets. Almost has a porous feeling to the insulation.

Doesn't feel kosher, at all.

 

Good general info here:
http://www.whiteproducts.com/fusible-faqs.shtml

 

Yup that's exactly how the one on my Comet feels as do the ones in my '88 T-Bird... It's full of them, must have 15 or more...

On my Comet I'm leaving mine in place but transferring higher current circuits to the aux fuse panel...

 

I had an 85 EXP that I did this to, especially important on the cooling fan circuits. I cut out all of the Maverick ones and the ones in the donor harness and used a late model Bronco fuse box similar to 71gold's CV box. It is a lot work and splicing to use something like that.

 

Fuse links are covered with a rubber type coating that doesn't burn when the link fails for safety. Over time the rubber will break down especially when exposed to harsh chemicals, solvents, oils, etc, and more so when the circuit is continuously overloaded but under the current load that would burn it through.

 

I'm using the seven circuit Painless Wiring aux panel... At present I'm wiring electric fan, Street Fire ign circuit, headlamps(they'll get their own hi/lo relays), electric choke and eventually the heater - A/C blower...

Cool thing is I can trigger the ign switched circuits relay with the wire from solenoid that normally jumped out the resistance wire to coil when cranking... Yes there will be a resistor in the circuit but the relay coil draws such a small amount of current, voltage drop should be negligible... Point is everything I need to connect it is already at the starter solenoid...

Would already be installed but it's been too damn cold...

 

The relay coil will work just fine with the resistor wire. I'm right there with you on the too damn cold thing...

 

Ended up using the stock link. I cut out about 4' out of the middle and continued using the working end.

 

Your not supposed to shorten them, that increases current rating maybe causing harness damage if there is a short in future...