What I mean by "A" is the shape. When you hear "A" frame it's because it's shaped like an A haha. Has 3 points of contact.. Usually no strut rod. No spring compressor needed if stock configuration. Use the 2x4 though.. Only because it helps keep the assemblies from hanging so low and creating some binding.
Ah OK sorry I'm suspension ignorant. I will take pics and post them here this evening. Thanks for all the tips guys.
Gene, are you thinking MII lower "A" here? maybe I missed something but my take is this member still has a stock suspension, which would be the straight lower control arm with the forward strut - if so, and an aftermarket tubular control arm was install, it could have been purchased longer than stock
Dayum now I gotta pull the poly bushings that came with my front end kit and install rubber... Was thinking about doing so anyway, front end is so tight it will barely compress and the camber bolts are still loose in the lower arms... Was kinda hoping it'd loosen up once driven but now I'll swap anyway...
Don't recall seeing those before. I do like them better than the stock ones. Do they fit is the question.
I have tubular lower control arms and the instructions say to losen the strut rod bolts from them before making changes to the alignment. I doubt this has anything to do with your trouble though. Its likely just a tight fit you'll have to muscle with. If you take the control arm completely off you can open the pocket up some with a fully threaded bolt a couple washers and nuts. Then repalce the lower control arm and do your alignment. If you find that they are already adjusted all the way in, it may be necessary to use shims to bring the upper control arms out... or are they tubular adjustable as well?