Valve Lash ?'s

Discussion in 'Technical' started by Scotty P, Sep 25, 2005.

  1. Scotty P

    Scotty P Member

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    Valve Lash ?'s/UPDATE

    OK, the solids were getting a bit loud after 500 miles of break-in. I decided to pull the covers and run the valves. Hmm, some had worked themselves off to .060! from .025 or so! I know that was stealing power but could it have been responsible for a vibration I have been feeling from 3300 to 4500 rpms?

    Second ?.. In adjusting them I was setting #1 TDC on the compression stroke. Then I should be able to adjust 1 IE, 2E, 3E, 4I, 5I, 7E and 8I. But, 4 intake was still half open! The motor was running well so I know they were correct initially. What am I missing? Easiest was to run the lifters sequence? I have heard just go by firing order rotating the motor over a quater of a turn between settings. Any ideas? Scott
     
    Last edited: Oct 10, 2005
  2. Old Guy

    Old Guy Member

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    The way I do it on solids, is to rotate till the exhaust valve just starts to open, then set the intake. Rotate again until the intake is almost closed and set the exhaust. This should place the cam lobes on the base circle of each sequence, especially with radical cam profiles. Double check everything when finished, especially the set screws on posi-loks, if used.
     
  3. curtis73

    curtis73 Owns stock in GoJo

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    The method you speak of, scotty, is great for mild cams. Once you get into extra duration or different LSA, you can't count on it anymore. I like OldGuys method since you can just go straight back the bank and do it systematically. Find a pushbutton switch and wire it across the solenoid to bump the engine over.
     
  4. Scotty P

    Scotty P Member

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    I think I will look for a push-button remote starter. The 2 screwdrivers arcing across is a pain! BUT, it works..
     
  5. Max Power

    Max Power Vintage Ford Mafia

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    Scotty, Summit and Jegs have em for about $12. Great deal if you are a vintage Ford guy. I use mine a LOT!

    (I think you have to search under "remote starter")
     
  6. Scotty P

    Scotty P Member

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    Thanks! Any thoughts on the first question I had? If the valve lash was that loose seems like the valve might not of even lifted off the seat(or much anyway). That would create a dead cylinder, one that is not firing. Could that be the source of my vibration at mid to higher rpms? (I hope so, don't want bottom-end problems at 500 miles!)
     
  7. dmhines

    dmhines Dixie Maverick Boy

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    How often did Ford recommend adjusting lifters on K-Code solid lifter 289's? They definitely aren't set and forget like hydraulics ...
     
  8. Scotty P

    Scotty P Member

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    I am good for 2-3k miles. But on a new motor springs settle in their seat, new heads etc.. I am not surprised thet loosened up. (although by quite a bit) I am just hoping that was the vibration issue.. And, I am always loking for a quicker way to adjust them. I like Old Guys EO/IC method.
     
  9. Scotty P

    Scotty P Member

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    Old Guy, thanks for the reminder of the "shade-tree method" It worked a lot faster (and likely more accurate) than the text-book set-up. And, it was a lot faster also. Thanks again for the wisdom..
     
  10. FredH

    FredH Member

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    You can always add stud girdles that help hold lash longer in addition to enhancing valvetrain stability.
     
  11. Scotty P

    Scotty P Member

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    no room under current covers. Not a daily driver so I don't mind. (once I remember how to do it that is...)
     
  12. Scotty P

    Scotty P Member

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    We don't always get to hear the outcome of some ?'s on the board so I thought I would let you know what I found. The lash was getting pretty loose (springs settle etc) on the new engine but worse was the vibration it developed from 2800 on up. It felt like crankcase issues, yuck! Well, two cylinders had seen the lash slip from .020 to over .080! That was causing those cylinders to not fire properly (plugs were soot covered) and cause a higher rpm shudder. Got some time last night to finish the lash (using eo/ic method) and took it for a spin. Feels like a new engine again and the vibration is gone, whew! To the track now..Thanks for the input all.
     
  13. hotrod-daddy

    hotrod-daddy Member

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    I'm glad you found the root of your vibration......by the time I got to read your problem,you done discovered your problem. Your problem is why many racers/engine builders balance their engines....your valve train eccentrics didn't match your cranks eccentrics,therefore you had a vibration....hence the use of a fluid damper to aid in this problem til the problem can be looked at more thoroughly......
     
  14. Scotty P

    Scotty P Member

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    ? Engine was/is balanced. Just for fun, I pulled a plug wire off, ran up to 3500 rpm and there was a shudder.
     
  15. FredH

    FredH Member

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    Valvesprings do not effect lash. Any "spring settling" would be captured between the spring seat and retainer.
     

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