OK.. maybe I should have said.. "most likely not". I do know that most of the senior members have generally said "no.. not without hood mod's or squished air cleaners". I just parroted what I've typically read around here, is all. And I do my fair of research and reading.. and writing.. here. lol Oh, and BTW.. ALL.. "air-gap style" dual plane designs are considered "the cream of the dual-plane crop" and are inherently the tallest models by design. Their airflow requirement atop moderate rpm range and/or larger CID combo's dictates a larger volume runner/plenum design.. is what it most boils down to. Trust me here.. you definitely want one.. and your dad will repeatedly thank you for it with huge smiles of love. So here's my take on the deal with your car, Tom. You have so much into this project that it would be almost downright shameful to put a lessor manifold on that wasn't allowing that sweet little motor of your dad's to breath it's full potential. Did this end up being a 363? If you really want to get right down to the gnats ass for induction height clearance.. and you'll likely need to.. you might consider the minimal work involved(comparatively speaking) to lower the engine slightly. In the scheme of things it's easy to mod the stands and the mounts. Also IMO, if you can dead hook this car early?.. rubber insulators will likely never last on the drivers side so you'll either want to bolt it.. weld yours solid(you'd just burn the rubber off the factory shell it to stay low budget).. or go with Poly on that side. As I get older, softer, and whinier about creature comforts.. I generally keep one rubber mount and run poly or weld solid on the driver side. Runs slightly smoother and still holds up for play time. As a side note. I've always thought it would be interesting to make a custom fit "filtered airbox" that can be attached to the bottom of these grabber hoods(and the GT's too). Inlet location could be inside the engine bay.. or out.. or even at the snorkels. Or maybe BOTH.. for those multi-season drivers that wanted adjustment for their seasonal carb tunes. It's not like people are really moving these cars stock motor locations very much, right?.. aside from the often odd variations Ford imposed on its buyers. lol And it should cover tons of induction heights. Pop your hood.. put a carb hat on it.. and let the questioning begin.
Any pic's? You're in the extreme minority and we all love us some pic's. I'm assuming the 4" filter requires the drop base? At least the extra lid height could be added into the mix to help things out.
PS.. to those who care. Most mfgrs have dimensional references for their particular "air-gap" manifolds on their websites.. or will gladly give them to you over the tech line. Not all are the same.. but most should be .5 inches or so of each other. Unfortunately.. that's a TON for a hood clearance challenged arrangement and it definitely pays to research.
I appreciate everyone's comments. I called the intake a medium rise due to it being taller than a stock 4 barrel intake and definately lower than a Hi-rise. I've always called that size intake a medium rise. Is there another name? Anyway, I was very close to going stock aluminum mustang intake. You guys have talked me into running the AirGap...That's was my rathers anyway...
Here is a picture of under the hood of my uncle's '71 Grabber. His car is a 302 with an Edelbrock Performer RPM Air Gap with no carb spacer and a Holley 4V carb. The air filter is a 14 inch drop base style with a 3" tall K&N filter. This combo fits under the stock Grabber hood with no clearance issues.
The 4" filter is what I run now with a cut hood and scoop but previously had 3" filter rpm air gap Holley 650 competition series it was close to stock flat hood but did not hit. Here is a couple pics including filter base I use and 1 with the 4" I am currently running which does not clear.
Very nice! I'm really digging that tire and wheel combo. And just so you know.. I wasn't doubting the fact that you had squashed it in there.. just as to what the specific parts combo was and how tight things looked. Thanks much for the follow up posts and the time to show us some pic's! And.. why the hell haven't you cut that choke tower off yet? Hacksaw and K&N stub-stack?.. about $40 bucks. Reduced buffering above the primaries and ease of airflow increase?.. priceless.
I have an rpm air gap on a 351w with a nitrous plate and it clears the stock hood. I don't run a filter though
