I have noticed a clicking sound under heavy acceleration from a dead stop that lessens as the rpms go up, shifts into 2nd and it gets a little louder again before fading out entirely. This only happens when I really get on it. Its fine during normal driving or acceleration once moving. I believe this noise is coming from the front of the engine. I recently built this engine and replaced the timing set. When installing the timing cover I noticed a guide that appeared to be hard plastic that was pushing too hard on the new chain. I had another cover that had one in better condition. My question: 1. Is guide available anywhere? 2. Is it even possible that under heavy load the slack in tne chain is clicking aginst this guide?
Sounds like a flapping convertible top to me! I would expect timing chain flop to tighten up and get quiet under acceleration.
Doesnt sound like any spark ping Ive ever heard before. I drove up some steep hills yesterday to check for it. Went slow for a bit and goosed it while I was climbing, seemed to do great. If this is spark knock, it may be related to my changing the springs in the dizzy last year. I never checked to see what weights I was running either. I may have too much total advance. Its hard to tell where my intial advance is set as I dont have that equipment. I thought it was about 14 degrees, but after looking at it the other day, it might be a bit higher than that. Im assuming my dizzy weights are 10L and 13L. 14 dgrees intital advance sould be near my ceiling. Maybe I pushed the envelope a little too far. I will bump the timing back a few degrees and see if that helps. It sure does run good though....
Hate to get into this can of worms, but what engine, what cam/heads, what carb, and what ignition system? I doubt it is too much initial timing. I have mine running off of full manifold vacuum and it runs MUCH BETTER!!! About 38 degrees initial timing, and all out around 45 degrees (estimates, it has been a few months since I actually measured these). But it runs much better, quicker response, and no lags between the transitions in the carb circuits. Also riched up the carb accelerator pump cams. I have found that when you think you are "riching" out, you are more than likely "leaning" out. These 302/5.0 engines like lots of timing and lots of fuel.
Its a 250I6 bone stock. I think my max timing range is 34-38 degrees. Its impossible to say exactly what I have since I dont know what dizzy weights I have. 10L and 13L seem pretty common for my motor. If thats what I have then I would have either 34 degrees or 40 degrees total timing. IF Im running as high as 16 degrees intial with a 13L weight, than I am maxing out at 42 degrees and thats too high. You are correct about being backwards on rich and lean adjustments on my carb. I thought I was way lean and I was actually very rich. Got schooled on that lsst week. Thing about this noise is that is very consistant sounding. Any ping Ive ever heard was more fluttery and inconsistant. I would be thrilled to be able to adjust this away.
Do you have a timing light? I can bring one to the Michigan Mini-Meet here in a couple of weeks if you need me to.
Even with a chain, I can't see the need for a tensioner unless the cam and crank are miles apart, like the Mods are.
Yes Jeff, thats it! I have one Craig but I appreciate the offer. Mine is old and once the mark is off the indicator, I have to just estimate.
I think I found the problem. I havent driven the car to confirm it yet, Im working on a couple other things and will check it out tomorrow. Some of you may remember this same problem back in my build thread and it turned out to be low on tranny fluid. I believe it was low again, not from a leak or a bad modulator but because I left a quart out when I checked for flow in the trans cooler. I left it out because it showed full on the dip stick. Here is the reason....wrong transmission dipstick. Someone may know the exact reason, but when I did my engine swap the dipstick tube for the 250 was different because the bell hoising was different. I had the dipstick tube from that engine but I couldnt find the dipstick. Here is where I made a mistake....I went to my 76 donor car and took the trans dipstick because it was also a 250. BUT, turns out the dipstick was longer, giving me inaccurate fluid readings. This was an AC car where mine and the engine donor where not. Im guessing AC cars have different dipsticks. Is this true? In any event, I feel much better. 7 days until I drive it to Michigan...tick tock, almost done.
I have seen 3 different dip stick lengths for a 302 so I say that you might be on the right track with your thoughts about the dip stick
