fords need a 45 degree or 120 degree spark plug wire boot. also ignition electronics can be a nightmare if they are low quality. odds of them failing and leaving you stranded are significant.
This may be used, but I'd be more inclined to buy this one. Motorcraft distributor, Pertronix electronic ignition and Accell spark plug wires. http://www.ebay.com/itm/371299942544?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649
Nope, I would stay away from that unit. Even if it performed well, where would you get replacement parts i.e. distributor cap, rotor or module? I'm with rthomas771; you get what you pay for.
I do agree that you get what you pay for, but sometimes you can find a good deal on thiefbay. Also, you can get the cap, rotor and what not for that distributor at any parts store.
"Also, you can get the cap, rotor and what not for that distributor at any parts store." We can see the module is one off. How do you know the rest of these parts are not one-off? It doesn't address it in the description of the distributor and it's components. In addition, if the purchaser is running a roller cam I don't believe they would want a bronze gear that wears out and sends bronze particles throughout their engine. I'm just uncomfortable with the product.
The bronze gears were used by aftermarket for roller cams before steel became common place, they do wear out, but supposedly the particles are not harmful... Yeah OK if you say so... The cap looks like a early Ford type but with male contacts instead of female, doesn't seem to have the locating notch that sets over the vacuum advance mount... Note it says Procomp inside so who knows what it may be... I believe I've seen that dist by it's self for $40 or so, if I were going to use it I'd buy a spare...
STOP!!! Now quickly look away from that "buy it now button".. and slowly back away from your keyboard. This is exactly why it's never good to drink while you surf e-bay for hotrod parts. And as for Procomp quality.. and as Tom already mentions above.. only god knows where they get any of their components from.. this month. If they can't copy and rip intellectual property off from someone else and have it made for them?.. they'll just outsource to the lowest bidder to get another copy of the copy made. Ever see what happens over time to a series of copies being made without the original?.. it gets diluted, quality goes down and is much harder to read. Now, I obviously can't speak for everyone here.. but I think most of us buy our performance parts for.. well.. performance. Sure lots of guys run these "offshore economy parts".. but they aren't usually sitting in the winners circles either. And more often than not.. once they replace components or deal with catastrophic engine damage resulting from all that "saved cash"?.. they don't save as much as they though they would. No thank you, I'll stick with the old tried and true.. "run on Sunday.. and sell on Monday" attitude to buy most of my performance stuff. At least the worse that can happen in this case is you get stranded on the side of the road. No major mechanical damage caused like some of their other designs. And I hear their shaft rockers and belt drives are really cheap too.
Thank you for the input guys i will not be buying this, I would still like to go electronic so does anybody have some good recommendations thanks
budget amount? budget = rebuilt Duraspark, used aftermarket MSD or Mallory distributor(these have much more adjustment.. although the MSD needs special bushings and are limited in range of adjustability).. + a hotter coil.
What everyone else is saying is so true. The problem with cheap, low quality electronic ignition systems is that when they fail, there is usually no warning whatsoever. The engine just shuts down. The old tried and true Durapark II's are hard to beat IMO.
Being budget minded, I would be leaning towards the Duraspark distributor with Motorcraft wires. I am using the same wires, cap and rotor I put on in 1999, 55000 miles ago.
What cap and rotor you using? I have a DS module an I have to clean/scrap the contacts in my cap and rotor at least once a year or risk the car stalling. I am using cap w/ alum contacts but going to brass vry soon and see how that works.