Shelby Drop done, but there's problems

its a trial and error thing. you can get body shims at most auto parts stores. these will work. if you want to pull the arm all the way out you can use washers. i would put at least 1/8 inch in.
i would do both rotating the shafts to move the control arm back and put a machine washer under the front bolt/stud. then get adjust the strut rod to where the wheel does not touch the front valance in the turn. at that point go get an old school alignment. you dont want a computer telling a kid what the alignment settings should be. usually the machines dont even have specs for a maverick. at least find a shop that will put the most caster in with out having the tire rub on the valance. the further back you move that ball joint the more caster you will get. the more caster you put in, the better the car will turn in to corners, and the easier it will steer back to center. if you can get around 8 degrees caster you will have close to ideal for the design of the suspension system on these cars for best handling.

 

OK, thanks everyone, I'll try what Bryant said and let you know how it goes in a week or so.

 

What you did is moved your upper control arm & tire forward losing also some of your initial caster setting - most of the templates I have seen are straight down like a plum bob so you will gain the advantage of the additional inward angle of the top control arm, which starts your camber gains sooner in the turns, does not change your anti-dive angle of the upper control arms and the tire stays in the center of the wheel well

 

Move the wheels to the rear.....castor......using the strut rods, then re-align.

 

Well, I changed the suspension back to factory with new shocks and it's not hitting now. I can't be bothered messing with it (drop), I want to drive it this summer and cruise night car show is coming up, so it's back to factory spec. I shimmed the front stud of the uca's, then lengthened the strut rods, and set the toe in. I can now drive it to the alignment shop. Maybe someday I'll try it on my other project when I have time.

 

What's the backspacing on those wheels? With a 4-1/4" backspace, a 225/60-15 will fit with no problems, but if the backspacing is less, it can rub on the fender lip.

 

Cj pony says 4 inch. Would a spacer give a bit more clearance?

 

a spacer will make it worse.

 

It looks great back at factory specs. I would leave it there.

 

Wow, the caster is way off in that pic.

 

This was after being aligned to specs...supposedly.

Not an issue anymore. Have a rod and custom front end in there now.

 

Great. I was going to do the drop on the car this weekend. I thought the correct template was one for a 67 - 70 Mustang, and that is the one I purchased. After seeing this I am having second thoughts about it.

 

I didn't do the drop but I did cut my springs and had the tire hit the valance panel. I loosened the valance bolts and moved the valance forward maybe 1/8" to fix the problem. Wheel well trim hides the edge of the fender to valance.

 

I'm wonderin' why these cars have the wheels so far forward?? I've tightened my strut rods till they are almost out of threads to get wheels approx centered in wheel wells(which I assume is approx the correct position)...

I measured wheel position of Brian's Maverick after a fresh alignment and mine are approx same...

 

I've never had that problem with mine. The front wheels are pretty much centered in the fender arch.