I've run locked out timing on my T-Bird when chasing inconsistency issues at the drag strip... Initial advance at 36* and connect a starter button to spin the engine before turning on ignition, otherwise it would likely be hard to crank when hot... Point is drivability was fine, had plenty of power and as mentioned wakes up the bottom end...
I normally use a vacuum gauge to set timing, first time using a light. how ive done it in the past, was get engine warm hook up gauge advance until you don't see a rise in vacuum retard 1 inch of vac lock it down. see anything wrong with this?
not really wrong.. but what is.. retard 1 inch? You meant to say 1°? reason I ask is that 1" of housing twist is way too much.. and 1° retarded from the point of needle fluctuation is not quite enough. lol PS. if you don't plan to run different season based tunes?.. to help account for warmer weather, poor gas quality variable, and carrying extra loads/passengers, tune going away slightly (aging plugs/wires/contacts).. I always back timing off about 2-3 degrees from optimum to give a larger safety cushion. Or you could just do like I always did. Before all the passengers jump in and load up the car.. quickly twist the disty to pull out a wee bit of timing. Nothing says gear head quite like tuning on the fly does.
no.. I should apologize.. uhhhh.... duhhhhhhh.. inches of vacuum? I think I just type faster than I read sometimes. Same thing happens when I talk faster than I think too. lol
well, I got success. I reset the lash on the rocker arms. did 1/4 turn past zero lash. Started up immediately and smoothed out. the flicker in my vacuum gauge went away, I timed it using my vacuum gauge, I have 15 vac steady as a rock.. now I can work on other issues. but getting closer. thanks guys for all the help
I need to get new valve covers, and start to clean up the engine bay. maybe give it a fresh coat of paint.
ha, no, I was originally going to install a eec-v efi from a mountaineer. I fabricated a spot to mount the ecu there. but ended up ditching that and went with a fast ezefi. now I need to go back to the normal cowel. I picked one up off the forum, some day I will do that. but not now.
I know how that goes. I cut into the right footwell and installed a box that protrudes out towards the fender. This is where I put my computer and fan controller. It was the only good solution I came across. I think it was a suggestion from someone on the list. Micah
I never imagined the Exploder drive setup would fit very well in one of our cars, that looks like it could be a '99 Maverick...
i had to clearance the drivers tower some but it worked, and I like how much space it gives you for the radiator, and it puts the alternator real close to the battery, ac is close to where it was. I had a guy in Memphis do the ac lines, he used thin barrier hose, so its nice and neat, and he only charged me $250 to make up all the ac lines. not bad for a custom job.
