Replaced the seals on my transmission, but am having a horrible time trying to get the valve body back in. Ive watched videos and understand the concept. But cant seem to get it in where it works. I know its suppose to engage the plunger, and I assume the piece that has the roller part needs to connect to the teeth of the piece connected to the shaft. I should add the transmission is still in the vehicle. Any help would be much appreciated as I dont want to have to tow this somewhere to have it fixed.
yeah.. pic's would be good. Maybe sounds like you're having an issue seating the valvebody against the case due to the gear selector/detent arm spring holding it away? Just need to be careful about using these little 1/4" bolts to "pull the valvebody" into/against the case to fully seat it. They can chew up the threads of the case pretty fast.
Been a while on the old Ford stuff but mine is going back together to freshen my C4 memory bank this winter.. but IIRC, you can move the shifter linkage arm to a position that sits a bit lower on the detent arm to remove some of the spring pressure and make it easier to push the VB against the case with one hand while you start and snug down a couple of bolts across from one another to keep the VB seated in place for the rest of the bolts to be installed. Just remember that it's INCH/lbs.. NOT ft/lbs of torque. I can't rightly remember the spec' right now but somewhere short of about 120-140 in/lbs.. or about 10 ft/lbs or less after conversion. Don't guess at it and confirm before you end up pulling the whole works out due to stripped bolts. I've seen it happen and it pays to get it right the first time. EDIT; for some reason 6 or 7 ft/lbs seems more reasonable. Again.. be sure to double check the correct spec' before tightening it all down. Also be sure to use the circular tightening sequence.. center bolts first and moving outwards in circular style pattern.. to avoid bunching op the cheap paper gaskets these things use. I usually always do it in 2 sequences with about 2/3rds of the final torque spec being used on the first sequence. Confirm with the book and YMMV. Do you have a cordless drill with an adjustable clutch on it? Reason I ask is that tool makes the job much easier while you're holding the VB tight against the case. Without a clutch you better have damned good timing to get off the trigger in time though. Wouldn't advise it.
my transmission Guy has a little bitty battery operated drill... I use a 1/4" ratchet and two fingers. go over them three/four times. Harold has one he disassembles/assembles carbs. with.
Not yet. Put the new seatbelts in today. Had to order a new kick shaft seal as I wanted the last one. Those things are tough to get in. Ill get back to it as soon as i get the seal and will take pics if I need help. Thanks guys
Ok, finally got everything together. Was so proud. This morning I went out to add fluid. Put 3 quarts in and let it run. Went to run it through the gears and discovered that my reverse is not there anymore and I cant shift through all the gears. Something is out of whack. Like my gears aren't in order. Any suggestions?
Could be lots of things but we would need to know EXACTLY what you did to end up with these problems. And were there any issues with this trans to begin with? One of the easier checks is to find out if the shifter rod/cable is completely lined up with the detent on the trans shifter arm. You can determine that by shifting to reverse and then loosening the trans linkage nut/cotter pin and see if the linkage is sitting on the high spot between the detents. IOW.. if the linkage clicks into a detent to either side of the shifters location for reverse on the stick?.. then you need to adjust it to find a happy medium where it still goes into all gears.
Just a transmission leak. I think my gear selector and valve selector aren't both in park when I tightened up everything which is robbing me of reverse. Or something like that
Yep.. pretty much what I was just implying in my above response. I've had SOOOOO many issues with this through the years that I now have the habit of lightly tightening the linkage and confirming that the shifter mechanisms are completely agreeable and properly synch'd with the trans linkages actual detent locations. You'd probably be surprised at the number of issues these "universal one size fits all 3 speed" shifters(if that's what you actually have here) have created through the years for many many people.
Not knowing and assuming the worst is my MO too, so I "get it". Just breath.. maybe take a break if needed.. drink a beer.. should be on the home stretch here, bud!
I hope lol. For a moment I thought of driving it off a cliff. Will try to figure it out if not tomorrow night then this week. I also kept everything loose lining things up. Wish I'd have ran it through the gears 1st before adding fluid....sheesh
