Ok, one of the rubber elbow's down there did have a very small place dry rotted though. I traced the 2 metal lines up to the manifold, and I found one place that has about a quarter inch long hole worn in it from the 2 lines rubbing together. I decided to tear both the vaccum lines out completely and found ANOTHER small place that a had a hole worn in it. I took a piece of rubber gas line and cut it in 2 places and slipped it over the metal line and used 2 hose clamps to seal it over the worn areas(this is just a temporary fix). I also replaced all 4 rubber lines, the 2 that hook the metal lines to the manifold, and the 2 that hook to the trans. Then I adjusted the kick down like cabinator said to above. The diffrence in the way it shifts now is like night and day! :bananaman My highway RPM's still suck, but around town driving is way better. I think right now it is good enough to drive until we can do the 302 swap (some time this summer or early fall). The trans will definately be a AOD going in with the 302. My brother has no intrest in learning to drive a stick...
Terry ain't gettin this car back. We bought this car knowing the possiblitys of what it could take to get it going. Little things like this are to be expected of a 30+ year old car that is being driven daily. When someone stops in a parking lot or a gas station to ask you about what year it is, what engine it's got, ect. it makes it worth it. No regrets here... At times I can let my temper get the best of me though.
I'm in the same fix. My C4 tranny is on its last leg and the origional rear-end has sheared a couple of teeth (that's what happens when you put a CHP V8 onto a stock drivetrain). ANYWAYS... My C4 in the Mav has two vacuum lines hanging off the modulator, unconnected. Needless to say the shift points are really bad. Where do the two vacuum lines to the modulator go? Doug Bauer and his buddy stopped by and said they have never seen the vacuum modulator before. On top of that, a "spare" C4 tranny I have in the garage has a modulator, but no fittings for the vacuum lines! Whats up with that? Oh, and about the rear-end, I knew it was going to break (stock) but my son and me had a ton of fun laying skid marks 3/4 around the block with the 2.79:1 ratio rear end and the CHP V8 )))))) It will be replaced with a Currie 9 inch but I'm still curious why one C4 has the vacuum modulator and the other doesn't. Thanks, Tracy
go buy a single line modulator, perhaps for a 74 f100 pickup, just run one vacuum hose with manifold vacuum to it, makes things simpler
Something else is wrong if you broke an 8 inch rear end with under 400hp and slicks. These things are pretty tuff. Moneymaker on the musangandmore forum says an 8 inch can handle 400hp with slicks and infinite hp with street tires. As long as he's been racing, I tend to believe him. I know more people still running 8 inch rear with serious power... it isn't the weakest link unless something is wrong with it.
Pegasus, I got a pic of where my vaccum lines hook to the engine. There is a block thing screwed onto the side of the intake manifold and the lines hook to that. This is the best pic I can get right now, but this is just under the passenger side of the air cleaner. On your V8 I guess you should just find somewhere on the intake manifold to run the vaccume lines to. On another note, I borrowed some 16' wheels off one of my grandpa's Lincolns for the rear. Yea, they are ugly, but they knocked about 400 RPM off on the interstate, which "sounds" (in the car) like a HUGE diffrence. They will only be on there for a couple of weeks. I'm about to go out and clean them up and hit them with the black spray paint to make them match the front wheels. I know it ain't purty, but right now it's gettin me from point A to point B, and I still get people asking me about it all the time.
c-4 jamie if i read your post right (fuel lines.) make sure you get a elbow for the modulator as a straight line will kink in time ron
Jamie, Thanks for the pics! I'm curious though why there would be TWO sources of vacuum on the vacuum modulator. I would think they would cancel each other out (zero movement on the diaphram). Thanks
Hello Jamie i f i were to go with a aod i would go ahead and build/install a 302 because for the amount of cash and pains of getting the aod in you will be wishing you had done it all at ones. I plane on using a 4R70W or AODE I want the 4R70W but will take ether one. check out the post on these trans http://mmb.maverick.to/showthread.php?t=14727 they alot stronger than the AOD. just some food for thought good luck Jim
