Just keep in mind Brake Fluid removes car paint very very fast ... be careful where you get it just in case you have leaks. when I first did the swap on my car the proporition valve lines leaked like crazy and removed the paint in my freshly done engine compartment. I had to apply some major torque to the connections to stop all the leaks ...
I'm sorry, but half-assing a brake system to save time and money is simply unwise and unsafe. Do it right or not at all. Forget the adaptors and crap. Get the correct lines and fittings. If you really want to save time, keep your existing lines and distribution block. Order some front lines for a '74 Maverick. Re-flare the two short lines that connect to the master cylinder. That is the quickest way to get the car on the road and remain reasonably safe. You can install a proportioning valve later. I'm using the old distribution block and I intend to keep it that way. I had a prop valve on there before, when I first did the conversion, and it really wasn't "all that". Just have to watch out for rear-wheel lock-up during "panic-stops". Listen to the people who have done this conversion...
T.L. for the sake of argument, I am not half-assing this. I will not drive the car if I have leaks in the system. However, in my current situation, my best bet is with the '77 prop. valve. The adapters were made for a reason, I talked to a few old hot rodders who gave me some tips on making sure they seal properly. The adapter on the master cylinder I am not concered with, that will seal fine. I elminated the rear brake line adapter from the picture entirely, as well as one on the prop. valve. So now I have 3, one on the MC, and one on each flex line.
I slept on it, and I'm going to go with the d-block instead, for ease with a few of the lines, but I'll still need my 3 adapters for now
"Snake", I fully realize that if there are no leaks, there should be no safety issues. I just happen to think that using a bunch of adaptors is "half-assing" the conversion. No insult is intended toward you by my saying this. It's just that brake lines are really not expensive at all (unless you get stainless steel lines, which are not what came stock). I am not concerned about the adaptor on the M/C, that's fine. It's the adaptors on the flex-hoses that I take issue with. If it will get you by temporarily, that's fine, but I suggest that you eventually get the proper front lines. If I were there where you are, it would be so easy to show you what I'm talking about, rather than trying to explain it here. My front disc brake conversion on my '73 looks like it came that way from the factory. This is after making all of the mistakes and messing stuff up. I was about your age when I did the conversion (1990) and although I did lots of research, I didn't do enough and really didn't know what I was doing. I eventually got the correct components and made everything "right" on it. The conversion we did on "Crazy Larry's" '73 last August went so smoothly because I had already made all the mistakes on mine and knew exactly what to do...and what not to do...
I do plan to get the correct lines, in a few months, when I can afford it. I didn't take an offense from it, but I tell you, I'm frustrated as hell. I've got one side fitted with the new control arms, old spring, new spring saddle, new sway bar, new strut bar bushing, etc. As I let the jack down, my radiator started leaking! Now I have to look into a new one of those too, this car will be the death of me. And yes, I'm sure the rad. is leaking, no seeping from a fitting or overflow.
almost done We got the system bled and checked for leaks tonight, actually found a leak in the REAR brakes, I had done those months ago! Everything is tight and leak free, the calipers grab pretty damned hard and I'm going to have to get used to driving the car all over again. I need to reinstall my sway bar, throw the fenders and bumper on, add some wheels, do a final check on the front-end kit, and then limp it to the alignment shop.
