My windshield wipers stopped working, I've tested the motor with an Ohm meter and have determined the motor works. The plug to the motor is getting around 0.3 volts. I think it has something to do with the switch. If I have my car on axiliary power with my wiper motor plugged in there's a short of some sort in my dash, however, if my wiper motor is unplugged there's no short.
I'll try that, but what is the bushing? And if that's true, would the Ohm meter still read it as a complete curcuit. And also, the plug to the motor wasn't giving off much voltage? Does the motor just not require much? I don't mean to question you or anything, it's just that the motor I found for sale is $50 and I don't wanna spend that unless I have to.
I would run a hot wire from the battery and see if you can get the motor to run by putting power straight to it. I'll bet the switch is bad before the motor...
Ya know, it's really funny, I ran a hot wire to the fuse to test it and I didn't even think of running it to the motor. I'll try that when I get home. Thanks alot. Also, just to give me an idea, if it is the switch, how hard is it to replace it?
The bushings rub against the armergtor. If the bushings are worn it will not make a good enough connect. You cann't replace the bushings. Yes the Ohm meter will still read it as a complete cercuit. Its not a really good test for testing a motor, at least I never heard of it.
not necessarily jamie, I've replaced many more wiper motors than switches, the motor works far harder than the switch and wears out quicker, he needs to check the motor first then the switch, if he has juice to the motor then the switch is working(per say).
Mike, I think your talking about the brushes. The bushings are in either end of the motor and the shaft rotates on them. Wayne, I understand what your saying, but I still think it would be a good idea to hot wire the motor just to be sure.
Ok your right I was talking about the brushes. The motor wears out more than the switch. I have yet to replace a switch more time its the motor.
But can the motor run on less than a volt? I'll hot wire the motor today if I get a chance. Thanks for all the input.
The easiest way to replace the switch is to pull off the heater control panel and carefully move the heater controls off to the side toward the cluster. You can get access to the switch that way. Otherwise, you have to reach up all the way to the switch while laying on the floor like a pretzel. If you have a/c, the ducts will be in the way also.
If You Only Have 1 Volt At The Harness Unplugged Going To The Motor Then You Don't Have Enough Voltage ,look At Switch See If You Have 12volts To It If So It's The Switch ,ck W/bl Wire At Switch It Should Have 12 Volts
Alright, also something very odd happened last night, I think it might be related. There was some sort of short to the frame itself. The body of my car was hot. This short was causing my car to not start. I think it might some how be related to the problem with my switch (assuming that is the problem). I tried my car this morning and it was working fine. My dad seems to think it could be my battery though. And for testing the switch, is there an easier way to get to the switch than under the dash?
What do you mean a short? Was this where a ground wire or something was connected to the body? Where was it at?
I don't know where it's at. Not a ground wire but a hot wire, one connected to the positive of the battery. The entire body has a current running through it, it's not supposed to. And, the short is going in and out. My dad seems to think it's my fuse box, so I'm gonna take it off again and clean it out and stuff.
