another option is to build what you have. there are many parts for the 8"s now that can make them surpass your HP needs and there are disc conversions for them also.
The bad thing about building an 8" with all aftermarket parts is that you will end up with a rear end that is still inferior to a 9", but spent the same dough. The 9" rear is so prolific that you don't have to rely on a rare few suppiliers to get the aftermarket parts that you feel you need. Also, you will not need to swap all the parts with aftermarket in most cases either. The stock "light duty" 9" stuff is very strong. All of this adds up to a stronger rear for the same or less money. Yeah, you can spend 2200 bux on a 'built to the hilt' version, but you can also put one together with a little thought for less, and still be stronger than you need. If you do decide to run the 8", the Exploder swap works on those too. My .02 Dave
I guess all this info begs the questions; how much torque will a built 8" take? and which 9" is the narrowest to get close to a Mav's width?
If you were running an auto trans, I would highly recommend the 8in. Have run some serious HP and torque with them in our drag cars, but all were C4/glides, so they never gave up in 15yrs. Maximum of 10.5 slicks were used, the axles are just as tough as they come. Big draw back is the teenie rear pinion bearing compared to the 9in, I switched to a 9in but narrowed it to use the 8in axles that were in the old 8. Dumping the clutch on your 5 speed will probably be a bit hard on any rear assy., so a 9 would be the choice. You can get the housing shortened by a good machine shop for less than 200.00 and the Moser or Strange axles with bearings etc, run around 500.00. No need for the overkill on the nodular case and pinion support etc, uless pushing around 8 or 900 HP, blowers and nitrous. I take it this is a street strip type car and the lowly 8in will work just fine, as long as you are easy on that clutch pedal release. With the s-10 disc conversion, mavman talked about, should have less than 1000 in the whole deal. Your car, your money, you can do what you feel comfortable with. Next auto show you attend, check under the roadsters and early hot rods, bet a lot of them are using the lowly 8in because of it's width and relativly good endurance qualities. Weight is another factor to consider but that is another whole can of worms. JMO
You can use frt jeep cherokee Rotors and no need to drill have them on the rear of my mav. The only thingthat sux is lack of parking brake. Car stops good.
Thanks for the advice. I didn't mean to hack someone else's thread but it seemed like a waste to start a new one. The mav I got will be a road-race/autoX car. Basically a completely stripped down caged car that is race-only, but keep lights, windshield wipers, and other things to keep it street legal. I respect a car that you can drive to the race and drive the trophy home. Plans are for a turboed 302, about 600 horses and a 4 or 5 speed manual. We've started planning the fender flares and may do a little cutting to fit 315s in the back and 285s in the front. With 16" wheels like are planned, I expect launches to be pretty easy on the rear. I think they'll break loose on demand without the benefit of loose sidewalls, but I can also imagine an occasional drag run; loosen up the front shocks, throw some fat-n-skinnies on it and see if we can get some respectable times. So, for general 600-horse duty I can see an 8 should do fine, but depending on how much drag duty my buddy wants to give it, a 9 might be wise for sidestepping a clutch.
Yeah, right! I am not sure who gave you that idea... but I (obviously) disagree. I have broken several 8"ers. With very mild engines, auto with stock converter, and never slicks. Usually the pinion or diff disintegrates. 600hp would rip it to shreds. Waste of money, imo. Dave
Look up a few replies. That's where I got the idea. I don't know anything about Ford rears, that's why I asked. I'm putting together some info before I make purchases.
57 Ford (for sure, maybe 58-59 as well) 75-81 Granada or Monarch 70s Lincoln Versillies 65-68 Mustang 69-70 Mustang (wider, will work with right backspacing) Actually all of these rears are wider than ours, just some are better fit than others. Later Stang and Versillies need close attention to wheel size. Granada 9" is the best swap. It is only slightly wider, and all parts are direct swap. The other option you have is to get a 9" housing center (without axle tubes) and have your 8" tubes welded on. That way you can use your stock axles with a 28 spline 9" differential. A little secret: Mustang rears from 65-68 were made just that way... 8" tubes and axles on a 9" pumpkin. The story goes that it was Shelby's idea because Ford didn't have a 9" engineered for the Stang at the time. Dave
Ding Ding! We have a winner. That last idea sounds like the wisest to me. Same width, same spring perches, 9" strength. Thanks all for the advice.
Re-opening an old can of worms... Has anyone ever considered an IRS for a late model cobra? I know it's a lot of work, but it would be pretty cool.
I have considered that. I haven't actually measured one out but its gotta be close. I had mentioned to my buddy who has a junkyard what I was doing and he suggested an AWD setup from either an Aerostar or Astro/S10. Talk about opening a can of worms
Currie will sell you a 9 inch housing and axle package built to maverick specks. Rite down to the orignal location of the brake line holders. The housing and axles cost me about $650.00 4 years ago. This is a true bolt in deal. You can still use the stock axle bearings, hubs, ect. If you didnt know my car was supposted to have a 8 inch you couldnt tell the differnce. Then find you a center section out of a old pickup, Till you can find or build center section that you want. Disc brakes can be added anytime. The 8 inch WILL give up with about 350 horsepower and stickies. Been there done that. I have approx. $2500.00 in my 9 inch which has not given any trouble in 4 years with 1.5 60 ft. times at 3340 pounds. The caps on the 8 inch will break not the gears or axles. Hope this helps
There is a 9" that has the chunk offset to one side, I just can't remember what it was used in, I want to say mid 60s Econoline vans. An old drag racers trick was to take one of these and narrow the long side to the length of the short side, then you could use a short side axle in it and have a narrowed rearend for just a few bucks. I don't remember just how wide it was when you got through narrowing it, but best I remember you had to use wheel tubs and relocated frame rails......
I've seen this done in a Merkur with a TT V8. Very cool swap. It was over on Turboford.net I can't seem to find a link to it right now.
