Lowering Blocks

Discussion in 'General Maverick/Comet' started by Rick Book, May 11, 2003.

  1. Rick Book

    Rick Book Member

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    I think I saw a few guys on here have lowering blocks on their leaf springs.

    A few q's:

    a) Where did you buy yours?
    b) What is Part Number if you have it?
    c) What thickness did you get?
    d) What are envelope dimensions (L" X W")?
    d) Any troubles during or after installation?
    e) Any installation tips?
     
  2. Mavericknutt

    Mavericknutt member

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    Hey Rick I bought a set at Auto Zone (I used them to lower the rear of my car to achieve the ride height I desired before I mounted the ladder bar coilover set up) the cost was only $25.00 and that included the new u bolts,the u bolts were 1 size larger so I had to drill the lower plate out......they are a 2" block....I will try and measure them for ya today:D I hope will help
     
  3. Mavericknutt

    Mavericknutt member

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    Hey Rick I bought a set at Auto Zone (I used them to lower the rear of my car to achieve the ride height I desired before I mounted the ladder bar coilover set up) the cost was only $25.00 and that included the new u bolts,the u bolts were 1 size larger so I had to drill the lower plate out......they are a 2" block....I will try and measure them for ya today:D I hope will help ohyeah I'll get you the part # too:)
     
  4. Rick Book

    Rick Book Member

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    Cool! Autozone has something I may want to buy!

    No need to measure - I thought about it after I posted, all I really need is the width - of which I can get by measuring my leafs. The length is probably insignifcant (and std).

    Thanks!

    Rick
     
  5. Mavericknutt

    Mavericknutt member

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    well I forgot to get the part #:D if you need it I'll get it later today...but they are motor might brand and they are 2 1/4" wide and 5" long...
     
  6. Rick Book

    Rick Book Member

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    Thanks Robert,

    I already sent my mom in to town to go me a set (horrible Mother's Day Humor).

    My brother-in-law is on his way to AZone. We'll see what he brings back (knowing him, he'll want to whittle one out of a 2" X 4" White Pine :eek: ).

    Thx.

    Rick
     
  7. K. Merring

    K. Merring Regular

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    Rick, 2" angle iron or other size welded into a rectangle at the length you want is all you need, with the locator holes in the center. When you get out near 2", consider going to 3/8" size U bolts. The stock size is on the light side for taking a lot of power, when there out to that length. Just drill the bottom plates out to size.
     
  8. Rick Book

    Rick Book Member

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    Thanks Ken. I'll do that.

    What does everyone do to prevent the rear leaf spring perches from bending under heavy launch? I've heard of welding a peice of square tubing on the rear/topside of the perch (between axle housing and perch). Are there any other methods that achieve the same thing (where I dont' have to weld on the axle housings)?
     
  9. fordman

    fordman Member

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    can you run lowering blocks at the strip are they legal to use ????????
     
  10. Rick Book

    Rick Book Member

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    Yikes Ivy!

    I didn't even think about that! Is that an NHRA rule or strictly a track stipulation.

    I'll have to do some researching.

    Thanks for the Heads-up.

    However, the tech at the 1/8th mile track where I'll be running moslty, let's me get a way with a lot (non-safety issues). If they
    considered unsafe, I'll certainly oblige their reqest for me to conform.


    It just looks too sweet with the 2" lowering. :(

    (message created ehile under the enfluence of viadin (sp?) fom the eardurm/grating surgery. 'Will preview and spell check later.)

    Good luck and be safe,

    Rick
     
  11. Mavericknutt

    Mavericknutt member

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    Well Rick here is another idea that we used on 4x4's to lift em.......but you could use it to lower one as well..... Take a piece of 2x3 rectangular tubbing and use it for your spring perch and 2" lowering block all in one they are real tuff this way all you have to do is cut it at desired length cut a radias cut on one side of it so it fits your rear housing then drill the center hole in the bottom. and box the ends in(1/4" thickwall tubbing:))buy your new u bolts redrill your bottom plates for the larger u bolts bolt every thing up get it centered up and set your desired pinion angle then weld the new perches to the housing..........I hope this made sence.......:D
     
  12. Rick Book

    Rick Book Member

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    Yeah, Robert it did make sense.

    My next thread was going to be about pinion angle, but I don' t have the motor/tranny in so I'll have to wait on that one.

    Thx.

    Rick
     

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