Dumb Question

Discussion in 'General Maverick/Comet' started by Fazo, Apr 24, 2006.

  1. Fazo

    Fazo New Member

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    I'd like to know if there is a set of guidelines on the site on what to look for when sizing up a potential Maverick. For example, is there one thing that would cause you to walk away from a seemingly good deal? Where should I look for problems? I'm basically looking for a nice daily driver that needs a small amount of tlc. How about it...any advice?
     
  2. riporter

    riporter Member

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    70 Maverick 2 dr. modified street cruiser, 72 Comet tube chassis drag car
    In a Word....R-U-S-T...you can overcome anything else with the knowledge this board has to offer...:wave: :Welcome:
     
  3. don graham

    don graham MCG State Rep

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    a common place for rust is the cowl vent. this is the slots between the hood and the window. i take a gallon of water and pour it in and see if any shows up inside underneath the dash or if it all goes down the drain to the ground as it should. also check for rust underneath on the frame like the torque boxes. good luck. welcome to the board.:Welcome:
     
  4. Maverick Man

    Maverick Man The Original Maverick Man

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    Two 1973 LDO Mavericks (one 4 Drag one 4 driving like Mad on the roads :) ) also have a 75 6cyl Stock! Ok, well sort of Stock :P
  5. Wes

    Wes Maverick Police Dept.

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    Specific critical areas for rust:

    front cowl on pre '74*
    floorboards, all years*
    frame especially rear shackles, all years*
    torque boxes, all years*
    front fenders, all years
    rear quarters, all years*
    shock towers especially at top, all years*

    * major repairs, harder to do especially if a body work novice

    Walk away from MAJOR frame rot. The rest can be fixed. The cowl is probably the next most difficult fix, but several here have done it with success.

    Cars from the Northeast (ie. rust belt) are the most prone to these critical areas of rot. Cars from the Southwest are prone to all rubber items like window gaskets, bushings, etc. dry rotting. These are MUCH preferable to rust and easier to repair, much less cheaper.
     
  6. Acornridgeman

    Acornridgeman MCCI Wisconsin State Rep Moderator Supporting Member

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    Rust, rust and more rust. Some good advice has been given on where to look so far. Keep in mind my golden rule about rust - you only see 20% of what is actually there. Get the car up on a hoist and use a really bright light to look over everything carefully.

    Post pictures for us to see too - opinions are normally pretty accurate here (y)
     

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