Im making custom subframe connectors from 2x3 tubing (laid sideways), and while under the car I noticed it would probably work. Since my subframe connectors run all the way back to the front of the leaf spring, Im thinking of notching the rear to remount the spring over a couple inches. And use the same tubing to make a perch for the rear shackles as well. This should give an extra few inches of BS for a wider wheel and tire. So have any of you guys ever moved the leaf springs to the inside of the frame rails?
if i remember, you would also have to move the inner wheelwell in, also, to get much benefit. go check on your car.
You can't move the spring shackle without changing the offset on your wheel. You can use the tubing that you have to make your connectors. Start with an overlap of a few inches and slide the tubing over the front connector. with the tubing running straight back find out how much you have to "bend" the tubing to make it line up with the rear subframe. Take the tube off and cut a notch (only through three sides) to allow you to bend the tube enough to line it up and then a matching but reverse notch to get the tube to be straight compared to the rear subframe (like a shallow "Z"). Trim the length to slide onto the rear subframe without interfering with the spring shackles. Trim the ends to allow you to slip the connector over the ends of both subframes (front to rear) and weld the ends in place. Use doubler plates where they connect to the subframes to stiffen them and you can weld the connectors to the floor to add rigidity if you want. Do the same thing to the opposite side and you will have strong, stiff connectors that are just like one continuous frame tube on each side. You can also add cross pieces to reinforce your seat mounts if needed.
I already have the subframe connectors made...no issue there. the back side sits flush against the rear subframe and all I had to do was notch the front side to fit snuggly against the front frame rail. Im making some outriggers to weld to the subframe connectors and the rockers then I have some flat steel to weld over the seams on the bottoms where the subframe and frame meets, just for extra stiffness. They are about 4' long so they run almost the full length of the floor pans , so they should be plenty stiff! I dont want to make a piece that runs all the way to the back bumper thats too much trouble. I was planning on getting different wheels anyway so wasnt worried about that. Since I was doing all this I figured I might as well try this and get those extra inches even if I have to move the inner fender-wells a inch or 2. I was just wondering if anyone had done this on a Maverick. They have been doing it for years on Nova's, Mopars etc. Even if its just for an extra 1" 1/2", I know we would all like to have and extra 1" or so...
Why would you HAVE to change the offset on your wheel? Moving the spring and perch on the axle doesn't change the length of the housing or position of the axle. Granted, the main reason is to make room for more backspacing.
Exactly Matt! I could just be making room for a wider tire. Doesnt mean you Have too change the wheels offset.
I was under a Mustang II in the junkyard the other day, and it appears that the mounts that the front of the leaf springs mount to bolt onto the body... Seems they would work well for a custom installation.
I will, and IM going to measure everything and make templates in case I want to do this to another Maverick down the road. And in case anyone else wants to try it.
I believe what IM going to do for the rear is build a setup similar to what FatMan's "Wonder Bar" setup looks like. Seems really straight forward and I dont have to worry about making a bracket for the rear shackles since their wont be any. I already have a panhard bar I think will work so making some small brackets to mount it should be easy. I'll let you guys know how it turns out.
See link - I tried to describe what was done. The springs were moved completely inboard of the rear frame. http://mmb.maverick.to/showthread.php?t=11988&highlight=spring Cleaver
lol. I'm pretty sure you guys are saying the same thing. The distance between the outside of one tire to the other must stay relatively the same. The only thing that can change (in order to get a wider tire) is to reduce the distance between the INSIDE of each tire. So, in order to get a bigger tire in the wheel well, the back spacing would have to increase. There. I think we're all confused on the same page now.:16suspect
Alot of good info there thanks! 4" per side is pretty good. I know that bump stop takes up too much space...as soon as get the wheel and tire off its gone. Did you completely remove your 1/4 panel when you did yours? Im just going to cut the wheel well, trim the trunk floor off to where it meets the outside of the frame rail, and cut a filler piece for the gap that will be in between the 2 pieces of wheel well.
Here's a few pics of what I've made so far. I still have to make the rocker tie-in for the drivers side. And I have to trim the back to move the leaf springs over. I think I can have them in by Friday. We'll see...
