solid roller valve spings ????? help

what valve springs are you running and what seat press i am running afr with the 977 comp springs & solid roller cam int 242--608 exh 248-- 614 and it aint working comp told me to set this springs at 150 lb seat at 1.800 i ran this all year the springs had beat the retainers and the valve seats bad jast about droped a valve i try to run this 302 at 6500 rpm 1/4 mile only

 

Just opinion but trying to run solid rollers is a heavy setup at lifts over .600 and 6500 rpm for parts life.
I would be asking how much benifit to air flow there is at that lift level and possibaly backing down on lift to help the problem.
Another way would be to install helper springs in the lifter valley to take some inerita load off the push rod/ valve trains up top.
Your at the limits of duribality and need to get a little deeper into the engineering area to see what can be done.
I know the NASCAR engines run at 8 to 9500 rpm but pretty sure they use flat tappet cams and still have there share of the same problems.

 

i,m looking at the 917 comp spring @1.800 200 seat 480 open @ .600 do you think i can run this a year with no trouble ??????

 

You really need to check with the cam manufacturer to get the correct spring pressures. You can have 2 cams with the same specs but require totally different springs due to differences in profile aggressiveness. My point is that there is no rule of thumb that you can safely go by here.

 

977 comp spring is on their cam chart as the spring to use with this cam and the next three larger cams and they said this is the one to run BUT this spring is only good for .600 lift on the spring chart their cams are all over .600 and up ?????????? htt://www.compcams.com/catalog/162_163.html

 

Is your lift still over .600 after lash?

 

xr292r 254- .621 298-.627 setting .016--.018

 

spring pressure

My roller is smaller than yours..... I'm @ 240.....500lbs... Are you using lash caps????

 

Dad's roller is smaller than any I've seen (but it works awesome). Springs are 190 @ 1.75---520 @ 1.100". Also, if you're planning on spinning it above 6500, so yourself a favor and spring for some titanium retainers and locks. They'll save your motor if you don't check them often (and your wallett$$$). They're much stronger than steel, and yes they cost more, but you have to ask yourself, do I want to pay for a set of retainers/keepers now, or do I want to pay for repairing the destruction caused by a dropped valve later on.

 

i have new locks & retainers titanium to go back with i have not used valve caps tea,s when do you need them are they for the sping pressure 200--500 ? maveman on your dads do you run one set of springs all year are do you have to change them often i will keep check on them next year i am very luckey that i have not droped a valve thanks for all the info men it helps

 

Dad's have been on all season long, and have about a million passes on them lol. Mine, I changed them last season when I upgraded to the 351w from the scattered 393, but they don't have as many passes as dad's do. My cam is a little more radical (relatively speaking) than his, though...if that makes much difference.

 

Why such a big cam for a motor that sees such relatively low RPMs? That cam should be able to spin 7000-7500 easily? Especially a solid cam!

 

here's some good info....http://www.rehermorrison.com/techTalk/03.htm

 

i went to the solid roller this year they are amazing the power they make on both ends the reher morrison story tells it all mavman that is good info thanks

 

There ya go. The Morrison article tells you as I did in my first reply, you need more spring pressure to keep the valves and lifters under more control. The solid rollers could be heavier than the flat tappets. At the higher rpm they need the extra control.
Quite possibly your roller lifters are also banging back down on the cam and if a stock type roller lifter, the roller pins are takiing a beating and should be inspected.