For those that have a set of these does your passenger side reducer fit? Mine doesn't line up with the collector due to floor pan interference. Also, I have the larger bell housing C4 and I had to trim it a bit to get the collector to fit the drivers side.
I don't see why you are having an issue here so I will post a picture of the prototype on the completely original Grabber owned by Jayman of this very site. I think that you are tring to attach your head pipes directly to the reducers supplied (which are straight). These reducers are intentionally made longer to accomodate different diameter tailpipes. You or your muffler shop will have to trim these reducers down to the disired length,as with all other headers on the market. At some point in the headpipe you will have to have a 90 or 45 to get the exhaust going in the right direction. As I have said in the past, you will need to visit the muffler shop to have them connect your head pipes to the headers, its a fact of life with any headers and no header manufacturer will make a header that will connect to your original exhaust system for very obvious reasons. Ask around. I have posted (many times) my personal phone number as well as my work number with extention in case anybody has any questions and here it is again (951) 371-1744 ext. 257. Give me a call dude . If you wish, I will call you if you pm me your number, from home or work. Here's the pic of the passenger side header where the collector executes....
I realize the shop will need to attach the headpipes to the reducers. I'm trying to setup a short home made exhaust system for initial start up. My problem is O2 sensors. It would be a lot easier to transport the car if it is running. I was hoping to use the reducers for the O2 sensor location. I may have to trim the reducer and slip a short length of bent pipe over it for the startup and then get it to the shop. Would I be better off not using the reducers at all and let the shop run pipe from the collector? BTW, the first post should have read that the reducers don't fit not the collector. The headers are on and fit as the pic shows. I'm simply trying to rig something up that will work for short term startup.
Headers just don't jump on the car for you. Stop being cheap and tow it to the exhaust shop. I worked in an exhaust fab shop and nothing got my goat more than when somebody(the owner) cob jobbed something and left me with limited ways to do the job right.
Craig, did you use the reducers at all? Mavowar, I was only going to rig something up for initial startup. I will set it up to be removed so the exhaust shop doesn't have to deal with my setup. It would be nice to drive it up on the trailor! And, I'm not cheap. But, I just had to purchase a 3500 furnace and money doesn't grow on trees! Just trying to be smart with the money!! Towing to the shop would be 150-200 as it is a distance away. I have access to a trailor for free! You do the math! And yes I realize headers don't jump on the car. I do like the headers and they are of good quality. I have a bit of a unique situation with the larger bell and O2 sensors.
You can run your engine without the o2 hooked up. It will run like crap when it warms up and light up you service engine soon light. A short run to put it on the trailer should be ok.
signal20 good point. I considered running it in limp mode to get in on the trailer. I would prefer to get it running and "worked out" a bit before loading it up but perhaps I'll just fire it and load it. I'm sure the neighbors will love it!!
I realize money doesn't grow on trees. I just remember all the stuff I had to put up with as a Fab guy. Got old. I know your a smart guy, you did swap efi on your mav. I'm just saying this.Jamie 69na 1/2 did us all a favor as a community and stepped up and built a product for our cars. I know some people have given him a hard time that it didn't just jump together. It's headers they typically suck to put on or work around. Not all cars are the same. 70's production standards were sub-par at best. Not to mention some cars have been wrecked and tweaked over years. Throw in after market parts(heads, bell housings etc)there is no way any one header will work perfect on 100% of these cars. I'm not busting your balls and I apologize if it came out wrong some of it was in fun. :Handshake this post was directed at nobody and everybody in general. Jamie( 69na 1/2 is an outstanding guy with lotsa talent and the ability to meet our needs as community for future header design/devolopment. He is tops in my book.
I'm happy with the headers as they are well built. Very thick flanges and actually easier to bolt to the head then cast iron manifolds. And, I think Jamie did a nice job with the development. I never questioned the quality of the header. Mavericks are simply a PITA to work on under the hood with the shock towers and extra 40lbs/6000ft of wiring for the EFI. That combined witht he fact that I'm using a truck C4 has created a situation that is a little more challenging/frustrating. Plus, I'm getting tired of working on this thing! I can start the car and drive on to the trailer as it will still be in closed loop but I like to hear what is going on with the initial startup. I'll get it figured out just wondering what others have done. It looks like Craig may not have used the reducers at all based on the pictures from the post back in June.
Thanks for the nice words. Craig used the reducers supplied but had his exhaust guy, beautiful work BTW , cut them down to make the turn towards the ground. You will need at least the flared portion of the reducer to seal against the dome on the header. Your exhaust man should know exactly what to do when you hand him the reducers. We all know what its like to get frustrated while working on the car. When the dog gets wind that I'm having trouble, she tends to lay low for awhile . No worries EFI, we feel ya. Give me a shout if I can help. Jamie
Is this engine you're putting them on a freshly built one without being run yet? i say that because if it is, dont put the doug thorleys on for the break in...it'll damage the ceramic coating. nevermind... i re read the post
Yes....I used the reducers. To get it on the trailer.....I just tack welded an elbow piece to the reducers (to be removed later). I couldn't turn left and the passenger side was hitting the firewall....but it worked until I got it to the shop.
Thanks Craig, I think I will trim the reducer to fit 2.5" pipes and tack on a short piece as well. I'll run the O2 sensors in the "fat" part of the reducer. 72MAVGRABHER, I'm not sure why starting a fresh engine with ceramic coated headers would be a problem. What am I missing there?
Fresh engines cause a little more heat during intial break in. If the engine gets to hot it could damage the ceramic coating...
