Well I think I have the car finally solid enough to make the first trip to the track tonight...Hoping for 14.5...goal is to get it to 13.5... I have had a lot of guys at work telling me they are going to tech the sh*% out of the car because of the age??? Running street test and tune... I have a grudge race on the 4th of sept. against a guy at work for bragging rights and two buckets of chicken... He is running a 1990 ford f150 with stock 302 and msd..And I got the 70 mav. with rocker mild cam, 3.73 gears, dual 2.5 inch exhaust, hooker headers, msd ignition, holley600, and one loose nut behind the wheel... Tonight he siad he is putting on a 100 shot to make sure he wins.. we will see.. I will post my times and results tonight.. can't wait...
good luck. where are you running. i used to run at island dragway, back in the 60's. i grew up in n.j. in montclair.
ok not what I was hoping for but here are the numbers.. First run .633 rt 2.402 60 6.650 330 10.109 1/8 70.90 mph 13.116 1000 15.71 1/4 86.77 mph Second run .466 rt 2.482 60 6.759 330 10.228 1/8 70.72 mph 13.859 1000 15.859 1/4 86.21 mph Have to check the timing and will try to decrease reaction time.. Also will try building up the rpms and try launching but I am afraid of red lighting as the car really does not hold well on the line right now creeps forward on anything over 2500 rpm. Any other ideas let me know first timer here... What would a throttle body spacer do..I think I need more gear in my rear......
Try getting it to hook better off the line,your 60 foot times look like your traction isnt that good.The spacer will make the intake plenum longer.It will help increase air velocity a bit.I see your RT was better on run 2 but the car was slower.What was different between the first and second runs??? EG:Eng temp/track temp/ tire pressure etc...??
Just an FYI ...Reaction time does NOT affect your ET in any way. For now you`d be better off working on launch RPM and technique. working on Traction and then figuring out what shift RPM your car likes best.
If it's any consolation, my 1990 5.0 F150 weighs 4300# empty. Then you gotta add at least a driver. Assuming 4500# with driver, you've got approx a 1500# edge. At 10 hp per 100#, that means he needs 150 hp more than you produce just to stay even with you. Without considering areodynamics... Another piece of good news, on the F150 site, 16 second quarters are considered good for 302 F150s. 10 hp is worth .10 in the quarter as a rule of thumb. So a 100 hp giggle gas kit would, in theory, be good for 1 second. We all know you don't get the full rating... So, 15 seconds is the best he will ever pull in the quarter, but even that is unlikely as 16 second runs with F150s are using modded trucks. If all he has is MSD, that isn't even a power improvement. My 90 F150 is a slug. Oh, and my .02 on your car: Get a stall converter to match your cam and gear. Stock converter will bog a performance cam down.
if you hot lap you will not be consistent. you need to leave at exactly the same temp, rpm etc. and you need to stage the same each time. i have a 4500 stall convertor and et drag slicks and i dont leave at 2500. if i get up to 2500 the car wants to push also. have fun and try to be consistent, play around with the air pressure but don't go too low with street tires. it'll come around to you. it's good to have a baseline to start from. summit and jegs put out a log nook to keep track of all your times. remember if the track temp or the air temp or humidity changes your times will also change. usually the warmer the air the slower the car.
Depends on open or 4 hole spacer. An open spacer adds plenum volume and slows velocity. A 4 hole spacer intensifies the metering signal to the carb and has potential to increase velocity depending on the intake.
Vern, Tell us more details. Did you have excessive wheel spin? Did the car jump out aggressively with wheel spin, or did it feel lazy off the line? You poor 60' times could be too much wheel spin, or could be bog or lazy. Are you shifting manually or letting the auto do the work? An auto tranny is extremely consisent when you get into a groove with your work and let the tranny do it's own work. What gear do you have? I saw 3.73:1 listed in one of your posts, but unless you got an 8.8" in there or something weird, it ain't a 3.73. Never available in that ratio for an 8" or 9" rear. Do both tires spin, or just one? All of the answers to these will help determine if you need more torque, less torque, etc... The answers would make a difference in wether an open or 4 hole spacer would best suit you for example.
Ratio no wheel spin the car is sputtering/hesitating then taking off..Flys through first shift at 5000rpm builds up to second shift at 5000 then I shift to third and pass Through the trap. Both wheels spin in the burnout box but on dry pavement the one burns then the other one.. The rear is an 8 we just guessed at the ratio on rotating the drive wheel and counting revolutions on the drive shaft. All new fuel filter, rubber lines, metal are kink free, rebuilt carb. the car is crushing the paper insert in the fuel filter.. The transmissioon kick down cable is not connected the linkage stud is missing and I did not think it would matter as I am manually shifting the car..Does the kickdown cable have a vacuum effect on the carb that I am missing???
i would not be too worried about a basically stock f 150 beating a 15 second car. my brother has a 98 witha 4.6 and cold air intake that can go 17.8 on a good day. when you are driving it at 45 and hit the gas it just makes noise, doesnt even try to put you back in the seat. plus with it being a truck there is less weight on the back tires causing lots of traction problems. right now i would just work on getting the start figured out. if it is stumbling the carb might not be adjusted right for wide open throtle but good for crusing. try leaving around 2000 rpm because that is all you will probably be able to stall it up to with out it wanting to push through, maybe 1800.
