So yeah i just got my mav about three weeks ago, chevy guy turned ford here and i'm still adjusting and loving working on my mav allready, just having a bit of an issue. I can get the car to start, with some trouble, and have a couple of problems that i'm not exactly sure how to correct. The previous owner of the car, had the stock 302 supposedly "cammed " a bit, and it has an edelbrock high rise intake... says Torker 299 on the firewall side behind the carb... wich is fine and dandy, except the top of the 2bbl carb (marked motocraft D5UE DC) sits even with the fenders and an air cleaner cannot be put on it... when she's running, the car runs like crap unless you put yoru ahnd over the butterfly and limit the air, and she smooths back out a bit. I've thought about just getting a cowl hood and replacing the stock hood so that i can drop an air cleaner on her, hoping that will solve the problem, what do you guys think? I've been tempted to just rip off that intake and drop a stock 302 intake back on her, but i really love the way it looks, if i can beat my hood clearance issue... Another problem i've run into is ignition timing. We had the car running somewhat smooth and decided to whip out the inductive timing light since the distributor was loose, in doing so, there is a small tab on the passenger side near the harmonic balancer, but has no markings for degrees or anything... with the timing light, you can see a red line that is about 10'oclock (standing front facing rear of teh car) at best running, but that doesn't seem near right since it's nowhere near the tab... how would you guys go about getting a basis and setting the timing on it? What is the recommended stock timing on the 76' mav 302... I'll have pictures up of what i'm talking about soon, maby video of the car running, very pleased with the sound, dual cherry bombs with the mid-car turn downs, and a nice lope sounds mean... just can't get her running right. A couple of other questions... what is the stock 5-lug bolt pattern measurements on the 76' mav if anyone knows? I think it might be 5x4.5? but not too sure. Thanks guys! ~Cowboiup1979
You have a vacuum leak.Check carb base gasket,vacuum lines/intake gaskets.Torquer-289?? with a 2BBL on it.I know they made 2bbl aluminum intakes but I dont think any of them were that tall.Unless its a circle track manifold.If it is a 2bbl on a 4bbl intake,the adapter plate gasket between the manifold and adapter may be the source of your vacuum leak.(also the reason your carb sits so high)Yea 5 on 4.5 for the bolt pattern.You may have a slipped balancer issue.(balancer ring slipped on balancer hub)Check for vacuum leaks first,then mess with the timing.Good luck.
Awesome, come morning yeah i'll check that out, i'm pretty sure it's a 4bbl manifold with the adapter plate... i also noticed that the vacuum advance line isn't plugged in anywhere... my buddy with his ol 73' grand torino said it's not a HUGE deal.. but i've tried to talk him into finding out where it plugs in to... wish i knew... and i wish i had the pictures up so maby you could see what i'm talking about... and i think it says 299... might be 289... but the bastard is tall, the top of the carb sits a hair higher than the fenders I'd love to figure out how to slam an air cleaner on it, to restrict the flow enough so she'll run smooth, damn thing runs sooo freakin rich it'll make your eyes burn just sittin in the driveway.. hoping that with the carb rebuild i can fix most of this, though i've never rebuilt any carb other than my frist car, 89' honda accord 2bbl and that's a LOT different, haha
The vac hose goes from the dist to a port Above the throttle blades on the carb.If it aint connected plug it up when you time the car.Then connect it.Heck just plug it and see if the car runs better.Get rid of that ancient spacer and put a 4bbl carb on it!! you will be much happier.Trust me on this.A holley 600 w/vacuum secondaries is a good place to start.Get a 4150 model instead of the 4160.the 4150 has a metering block and jets on the secondary side instead of a metering plate which is not tuneable.An air cleaner will not make the car run better!! you have a vac leak or fuel metering problem.Or both.Fix that first then worry about the other stuff.
Awesome, thanks for the advice, sounds to me like an unopened 2bbl carb rebuild kit is going back to the store... and i'll probably snatch a new carb next week post payday then... just wondering, why is it when i put the hand over the butterfly and restrict he airflow does she run a HELL of a lot smoother then?
Because you are restricting the amount of air going into the engine.This is allowing the vacuum leak to become the primary source of metered air(acting like the carb )and so it runs better.When you uncover it the car runs poorly due to the fact that its getting too much air.(because of a vac leak)simple stuff huh??
MavMan72 hit it on the head, I agree with him 100%, especially on the 4 barrel. Trying to restrict the air flow with an air cleaner would be treating the symptoms, not the problem, and performance would likely suffer greatly from it. On another note, if you can rebuild an '89 Accord carb, then you will have no issues with a Ford carb. I rebuilt an '84 Accord carb, and it was much more complicated then any Ford carb I have rebuilt.
haha well, i was 18 when i rebuilt it, and well..,. my dad went abck and had to Re-Rebuild it... hah... so i'm a bit scared of it, thinking just get a new carb since that'll probably open her up, haha... worst i've had to do so far was getting that rats nest of vaccum lines that sits on a honda back in the right spot... talk about nightmare... took me a week to get my cruise control back! Thank you SOO much for telling me Why it runs better with restricted airflow... it was one of those that had me wondering... heh Hopefully i'll get those pics up here in th next couple minutes... As for the accord carb, whole reason behind it's rebuild, managed to snag a jap 4-bbl straight from a japan scrapyard... talk about making a tiny 4-banger scream eh'? Ended up blowing up that car twice, hah
Dont be scared.Be deliberate,and ask questions,lots of em.Remember the only stupid question is the one that isnt asked.Good luck.Lots of knowledge here,well keep you goin or get you goin.
Allright, i've done a bit of looking around, and found what i think might be a decent carb? but i've got some concerns My uncle always said, never turn a cab upside down, you'll ahve to rebuild it... why is that? What is the difference between manual and vacuum secondaries? here's one i'm looking at... on e-bay... what do you guys think? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Holl...018QQitemZ280160041512QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
When you turn em upside down, its possible for the needle to get stuck open on the seat allowing the fuel pump to continue to pump fuel into the bowls.Also the floats can get stuck allowing the same thing to happen.You wont have to rebuild it but you will have to open it up to reset the floats/needle and seat.On a holley its super easy to pull the float bowls if that happens.Actually you dont have to pull the bowls to fenagle with the needle and seat.It just unscrews out the top of the bowl.Vacuum secondaries use engine vacuum to open the secondary throttle blades as needed.Mechanicle ones are linkage operated and not as forgiving if its too much carb for you engine or you have fuel delivery deficiencies.When tuned right they work incredibly well either way.Another benny is that they are allmost infinately tuneable.The one on e-bay looks to be a good one with center hung floats and dual inlets(one on each bowl)as opposed to a single inlet holley.Which is just as good IMHO.I dont know how hot your engine is and vac secondary carbs are more forgiving for an engine thats built mildly as opposed to the mech secondary set up but at 600 cfm it should be fine so start bidding man!!and let us know if you win.Good luck.
Awesome, have to keep that in mind about the needle and float, as for my engine, i can't quite tell yet as the most i've been able to do is get her hot enough to open the therm idling... can't take the hand off the top of the carb or it dies, haha... but hopefully with the new carb i can resolve that... supposedly, it has a medium cam, and as far as i know, that's it.... poor thing still running stock manifolds.... ./cry!!! while i'm mentioning it, anyone have a good idea on headers? If it was a GM, i'd drop a set of hooker pro-comps for the sound... but i heavily doubt i can figure out how to squeeze most of the headers i see in the mav... hmmmm.....
Hooker makes a set PN#6901?? I believe. Doug Thorley makes a shorty headder,and I think Headman?? lots of stuff on here about headders.search old posts you will find lots of info.
Awesome, thanks got the part number pulled up, now to just figure out how to keep from getting tetnis... haha Did an old post search before i asked, couldn't come up with anything, something about internal server error, i'll try again later
