I finsihed my fabricating of my bucket seats tonight. Tomorrow I will pull them out and put in new carpet and then re-install. I have this issue though: There are 4 holes in the floor that the previous owner installed non-racing ugly seat belts. I pulled them as I prefer the factory ones. Then none of the bench seat holes matched for my buckets. So I have 8 holes in the floor. I have a grommet kit from Harbor Freight but that really doesnt help as the grommets have holes in them. I was going to use sheet metal and rivets for each hole. I have looked all over and cant find an assortment of black rubber plugs. Any suggestions? Should I just put round head bolts in the holes?
The carriage bolts would be a temporary fix. I think i'd have them welded up if possible. No chance of them coming off then.
Cheap....you want to hear Cheap....i have used...slugs...from electric outlet boxes... ...:Handshake...
Just put a large copper backer on the underside and weld those holes closed. The coper slab will keep you from burning the hole biger (if you are careful) and then gets knocked off. Use a copper slab at least two inches thick for best results.
id just tack the slugs from an electrical box underneath. be careful though , galvanised gives the effect of flu like symptoms after welding, if not properly ventilated. but they wont rust, leak, or fall off. and no one will know the differance, unless they are lookin for em. and if you dont have access to a welder, get some epoxy from home depot, it sets up in about 10 minutes. its pretty strong stuff.
The method of using copper as a backer, then weld the holes shut has been used for many years for closing up holes in fenders. There was an episode on one of the restoration channels where they eliminated the chrome and performed this task. I will be using this sometime later as I have a few holes in the rear lower quarter where some nitwit used the "drill holes, pull out and slap 3 tons of bondo" method.
Works well. I have used it many times to plug holes in everything from sheet metal to 3/4" steel plate. You get a solid weld - no leaks and structurally at least as good as the original metal.