Anybody no if you can plug off o2 sensor bungs and not run them ? Seems like i herd you could but you had to do something........maybe not. My headers burned into the plug for my o2 sensors, so now i need to rewire them. I would really like to do away with them if i can........
if it's OBD1 I think there's no problem. But I might be wrong, people over here just leave one of them plugged, the bottom one I think. One of them is used to scan the air in the exhaust and gives the info to the ECM to control the injectors' pulse width when it's on closed loop, the other one just scans the emissions, but doesn't have any control over the injectors.
You have a mass air flow motor, yes you need them. If you really just wanted to plug them, then cut the wires off and run it. You will burn excess amounts of fuel and it will act sluggish but it is doable..
and your cold starting will dramaticly change.... IMO, you need them but hey... this is from a technician's point of view
nah you dont need them but while your plugging them off you may as well get the 4bbl intake and carb back out too haha
As bad as i hate to say it i was thinking that myself............but $hit thats going to cost a lot to switch it over.................
not really.... used 4v intake= $75+/- good used 500-600 carb= $100 +/- or just go with a 2v setup and save lots of money but IMO, i'd leave it EFI. that's what im going to run in my '71 when i swap engines (hopefully soon)
Mass air 5.0 I assume? You CAN run without them. It will use more fuel, run a little fat at cruise and all other part throttle. Below 160 deg engine temp (or thereabouts) the O2 is not "read". It's in open loop. Once the ECT senses that its up to "operating temp" (its all based on voltages from the sensor), the o2's are read and the ECM adjusts A/F accordingly. Once the TPS is above ~4.6 volts (near wide open throttle) again, the o2's are not read. So yeah you can remove & plug them, but it won't be optimal and you'll have a code 41, 42, or 43. Or all three. It will run a little fat as well, mileage will be reduced and part throttle driveability will be a little worse.
Hey you forgot about all the stuff you need for the distributor too... Why take steps back when it is already set up? Fuel injection is always monitoring and adjusting itself to give you optimum fuel efficiency (efficiency = power). I hate to say it but at $45.00 each buy the one you need and just route the wiring away from the header http://www.autozone.com/R,1675625/v...partType,00117/shopping/partProductDetail.htm
