Let's see what you got!

Ok I know this thread would catch your eye and that's what I needed.

I was chasing the threads on my new .30 over 351W block and when I got to the last one I broke off the tap inside the hole. (yeah I know)
It's one of the thrust plate bolt hole and it's broke off flush with the block. I've tried to tap it out with a small punch like you would with a broken valve cover bolt but no luck.
I sell one of the best drill bits on the market if not the best and you know it won't even srcach it. I've then thought I will just beat it out in pieces, it's only a 1/4 big... WRONG!

So I guess what I'm saying is HELP ME!!
I'm open to any ideas no matter how crazy they sound.

Thanks in adavnce for your input.

Terry

 

It has been my expierence that you can blow out a tap with a torch very easy...... The outside is hard buth the inside of the tap is very soft. I have done this many times and if you are skilled with a torch you should have zero problems. Good Luck

 

After working in a machine shop for a few year I broke my share of taps off in all kinda of material. I have never had any luck with easy outs, what I always used was a carbide drill bit. Easy for me to come up with, I am not really sure if you can just run to a parts store and get one, but that has always been the easiest way for me to get out broke tap. If you do that route make sure you use plenty of oil on the bit because cabide will get very hot and break very easy. Good luck with it!!!!!

 

My first thought was using a torch properly, then I read Neal's reply and thought a torch and a carbide bit would make a great team to get it done. Keep us posted as to your progress and good luck. If it was easy, everybody could do it, that is what I always tell myself when things go wrong.
Dan

 

I have a set of broken tap removers. They have parts that slide down into the side cutouts on the tap. Then you can back it out. In theroy, anyway. If your not in a big hurry, I will gladely ship them to you so you can give it a try.

 

Man, there's a lot of good advice on this thread. I agree with everything said, plus I'll add one more to the mix. How about a set of those broken screw extractors that they sell at Sears? It may not be the absolute best but should be easily obtainable and might even work! Let us know how you made out.

Sam

 

I went and got one to show you. You set it on top of the broken tap. The slides are attached to the top ring so you slide them down untill they cover the whole length of the tap. Then slide the bottom ring down as far as you can to keep flexing at a minimun. I've had good luck with these the few times I've used them. Just do alot of wiggling back and forth in small increments to break the tap loose first before trying to extract it. I've had these for over 20 yrs and never seen them anywhere else. I think I've probably used them only about 3 or 4 times.

 

ooo!

Dennis that is a nice tool. Haven't seen those before.
Terry, a machinist buddy of mine used to have a little bottle of stuff called tap-away. You just dumped it in the hole and overnight or so it dissolved the tap leaving the hole undamaged.
He said it was obscenely expensive, but I've seen it work.
You might try asking some local machinists.

 

Thanks Guys

Dennis, I had heard of that tool from a friend of mine, he said that it would work if I had enough room... well I don,t.

With this being a 1/4 X 20 tap there is almost no room between the flutes to get a remover in there maybe 1/16 of a inch if that.

Thanks for the offer!

Tap-away now there is a product for me, and I will see what I can find. Thanks everyone for your time and input, I will let you know how this ugly mess turns out.

Terry

 

My set has one for each size, all the way down to a #6. Offer is open, if you need it.

 

i don't know a lot about welding but can you tack a nut to the end of the tap and then turn it?

 

I had never heard of tap-away, it was sure easy to find.

Tap-Away website

 

I dont see anything about using it on cast iron, but if it can be, thats one great product.

 

yep.

It's considered to be a magical elixer around here.
Not well known though.
I guess that adds to the mistique?

 

Well I'll give them (tap-away) a call today and see what they say.
I would hate to ruin this block with a hot wrench, I have the cam bearing installed and the freeze plugs, plus the block was cleaned and line bored to .30 over. That would be $200 just in machine work lost, plus the block.

Dennis there is no place in the front to get the remover in, I have already tried to break the tap up by beating it with a punch.
This is what almost every machinist here locally has told me to do and that hasn't worked. The tap does come though the other side but there is very little room to work and it a starter tap so the point is in the way.
I guess it's time for a picture so you can see what I'm up against.

I'll keep you posted and thanks again to everyone for your support and input.

Terry