If I remove the rearend out of my car how hare will it be to get it in exactly the same place when I put it back on, does anyone have any tips on lining it up on the leafsprings again. I would just crawl under the car and paint it but I am redoing the brakes and changing shocks on it this weekend, along with changing the front ball joints upper and lower and front shocks, so I figured I would just pull it out while it is easier to do.
First off... Take off the tires. You're gonna have to take out the rear u joint and drop the drive shaft. Then take the shocks out, then take the 8 nuts (4 each side) and the 4 u bolts (2 each side) that hold the rear on. Then, you have the brake line, and brake vent hose thats routed up close to the trunk.... you'll have to take off clips, nuts, bolts... my point is... just crawl under it and spray it. It will save you a load of work, and if you dont have much experience, and helping hands, it can quickly be a job not for the light hearted. now, if you decide to do it, lining it up is easy... there is a dowel on the leaf springs that helps you line up the rear end, it will sit on it. But, if it's not going to be a show car and just a daily driver, tape off and paint it.
your leaf spring perches on ur rear end will have a small hole in the center of each one, which lines up with a small stud that sticks thru the leafs springs. so if u remove it, paint it, and reinstall it then your perches will line back up with your leaf spring and all u have to do is make sure the stud in ur leaf springs goes back into that small hole and that's it. then u can start bolting everything back in
I am really thinking about taking it out I will have enough help to put it back in, I am shooting for a showcar/driveable car. I won't have any trouble lifting it up out of there. what do you mean use a dowel, use that to find the lowest spot on the leafspring how do I get it centered with the whole thing centered with equal distance on each side
I always use the "hammerite"(or similar products) hammered finish on my chassis and undercarrige. I roll it or brush it on, I have not had too good of luck with the sprays the thicker paint always seemed to clog up the tip for me. http://www.hammerite-automotive.com/ From what I found it is alot more resistant to damage and touch up is easy if you ever need to do it, I put it on my jeep axles and if I scratch anything I just roll some on in that spot
Be sure when you go to the parts store to ask for rearend paint. I could no resist that one, it was too easy. Good Luck Texasjack
Chris, You will want to lift the car and support it at the body. Leave the wheels on and have them hanging by about 2 inches from the ground if possible. Then remove/disconnect any hoses and lines. Remove the rear U-joint straps and disconnect the drive shaft. If you plan to take out the shaft you may spill a little trans fluid, messy. Now take the shocks out, bottoms first. Take the 4 leaf spring bolts out and roll that thing out of there. Hoping you have another set of stands, put it up on some. If your not working with impacts the you may want to break all nuts loose (wheels, u-bolts) while it's all still in the car. Have fun, I did.
Powder coat. Them traction bars are like close to 20 years old lol. Now they look brand new again. Altho the chrome was peeling, there was only surface rust. Thinking about it, the diff is 36 years old, and it looks new. I had it all sand blasted then I went over it all again to smooth it out.
Forgot to mention that the powder coater has some paint made for him, in a spray can. It's "Black diamond coat". It looks awsome on other parts. I bought a can for touch up and bolts etc... Point is, maybe a local powder coater has some you can check out. Paint is paint tho. I just wanted the matching color and it matches.
thanks for the tips, I am just going to paint it will probably be done this weekend, will post pics then
