Fly wheel woe's

Discussion in 'General Maverick/Comet' started by gtpictor, May 15, 2009.

  1. gtpictor

    gtpictor Member

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    ok got the new flexplate and installed it. It hit the spacer between the block and the trans so i removed it. I start the car and still get the slapping sound and i can watch the outside end of the flywheel flex/shake alot beack and forth. I watched closer to the crank and it spun solid and true. Is there a tour converter diffrance or something. This is getting really annoying. Thank you all for your help so far.
     
  2. Mavman72

    Mavman72 Gone backwards but lookin' forward

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    flex plate shouldnt be hitting the spacer plate you removed if its correct/not bent.You really need to put the spacer back in between the block and bell housing.your converter may not be seated properly on the crank/flexplate...causing the wobble.You may have inadvertantly installed the flywheel facing in the wrong direction on the crank causing your lack of clearance and ill fit.Good luck...
     
  3. gtpictor

    gtpictor Member

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    pretty sure it was bent. it made the same noise with both fly wheels. I installed the fly wheel so the weighted portion is on the inside twards the motor. the crakn shaft has a two step cut to it the tq converter has on large nub and there seemed to be a fine grit where it should sit in the crank shaft end.
     
  4. Mavman72

    Mavman72 Gone backwards but lookin' forward

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    Clean out the crusties...grit...it may be keeping your converter from seating fully in the crank.
     
  5. gtpictor

    gtpictor Member

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    oh i did but still being a bother. i rip the car apart again tuesday and try to place the torque converter to the motor directly.
     
  6. Mavman72

    Mavman72 Gone backwards but lookin' forward

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    place the torque converter to the motor directly.


    That will be interesting...What do you hope to accomplish with that attempt??
     
  7. gtpictor

    gtpictor Member

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    see if it is sitting flush. to see if it even fits inside the crank end.
     
  8. daydreamer

    daydreamer Mavmenace

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    Well you said you were goin to pull the tranny. SO, pull tranny, convertor, and flex plate. reinstall convertor into tranny while trans is sitting on floor. make sure it is all the way in. 3 steps. set flex plate up to convertor so that all holes line up and if there is a drain plug it must go through a small hole. Spray paint(any color) 1 stud from convertor and flex plate. This will be the line-up position of convertor/and flexplate when you install back in car. Take off spacer plate, clean all serfaces that this touchesand clean all dirt from crank end. clean all bolt holes on block and crank end. reinstall spacer/ then flex plate. Teeth should be about1/2 in from spacer plate. torque down these bolts. reinstall tranny with convertor, but only put in 2 bolts(2-3 turns) to prevent trans from falling from back of engine. turn convertor till painted section lines up with holes(in flex plate) and stud on convertor. Now slowly pushtranny all the way to block allowing studs on convertor to go thru flex plate. tighten all bolts and torque to required specs. If tranny convertor is in the pump far enough you wont have any problem getting this together. I have made this mistake my self and nothing lines up rite if convertor neck is not far enough in trans pump.Hope this helps.
     

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