Hey guys, On my 76 Maverick factory 302 it sounds to me like I have a lifter tap. My question is if I pull the valve cover are they adjustable? A friend of mine said to get an old set of valve covers and cut the center out. This will make the job a little less messy. Has anyone done it... Ron
I think the 76 302 is a positive stop valve train. Just tork them to factory spec's and go. There really cheep to replace and I'm going to do the same on my 74... I'm sure someone will chime in if I'm wrong
Not adjustable so no need for the cut valve cover. Does work good on Chevys though. Stops oil going everywhere. The non-adjustable valve train means unless it came loose something needs replacing.
The values are hydraulic lifters that means is you back off to the lifters until you hear it tapping than start tighting until it stops than go 1/2 more turn. If you have a noisy lifter find out which side its on and with the cover off if you place your hand firmly on each value you will find out which one it is. Good luck.
As said unless they are aftermarket Rocker arms they are the positive stop set up. Which means the only adjustment is longer or shorter push rods. You tighten them down and torque them. Now the books say to tighten them while they are on the base circle of the cam and not pushing on the valves but I have never worried about that. I just torque them to specs and have never had any trouble. You may have one that has backed off or you could have a rocker arm with a lot of where that could cause noise. Are you sure you do not have an exhaust leak near the same area? A leak will sound a lot like a rocker rattle some times clint
I'm going to go through it again. I know the exhaust can sound the same. In the Chiltons book I have there is a difference between early and late model 302. And the late is a positive stop. I have an early because the car was built in 75 for the 76 model year.
Another way to take up slack is valve lash caps. But honestly, if you need to ADD them, then something has worn down and is broken or breaking...
Well you guys are right they are positive stop. I rechecked the nuts with the tork wrench. A couple were a little loose. Found the remains of the PCV valve grommet on the one side. Helped a little but still there. So either it's exhaust leak or some other things inside are worn or stuck. And if I'm going to go through all that I might as well swap the motor with a newer bigger HP one. And go to headers. For now I'll drive it. Ron
one trick that helped my worn 302 in a fourdoor i had was to warm the engine with clean(freshly changed) oil and one pint of marvel mystery oil. then back off the nuts just slightly so they are a little loose but not going to bend or pop out the rod. run it for about ten minutes, then tighten it back down. pretty much eliminated the ticking, i was told due to the lifters filling up with cleaner oil and helping the weaker ones pump up? not the cure all but definately helped. I like the cut cover idea, i may have to use that for the adjustable ones i installed since they are driving me nuts pulling the cover on and off trying to hunt down a tick without spurting oil everywhere. i happen to have a set laying around.....
I may try what you suggested sounds like it's worth the try some evening. I thought the cut valve covers was a cool idea also.
Sierra, I have never in my life heard that, but for some reason, there seems to be just a little bit of logic there.... I aint gonna do it. I just swapped out to a new 5.0 bored +.040, bigger cam, better heads. and ready to run (after I rebuild the trans) I ALSO thought the cut valve covers was a good idea. It should catch most of the oil splashing aroung and recycle it back to the oiling system.
I would love to do the swap now but just can't justify the cost right now. The money if flying out the door on my Impala restoration. I would think that 5.0 will scream.
