i thread in the spark plugs.(inline 6 250ci)they wiggle side to side alot untill they are cranked down the last full turn and are seated completely.this will make me lose sufficient comprssion in the cylender creating a misfire correct???? car runs terrible but starts every time. i got everything timing related OK! new CARB! got the fuel OK! removed tank cleaned and refilled it with fresh gas the car sat for a while (15 years) im thinkin corosion sealed the plugs in the head and then me removin them to clean them cleared some of that corosion makin it leak during compression stroke? comprssion test gave me od readings.sometimes they wer fine sometimes they wer next to nothing. leak down test was fine. any suggestions to seal these threads where i could remove them if they got fouled but still seal them? exhaust manifold is rusted on so i cant get head off not worth it.and i only need this motor thru next summer. i was thinkin threadlocker high temp 600deg with teflon tape or if i have to JB QuickWeld the plugs in and hope it runs fine with compression back up and they wont foul out. someone please im either goin to scrap a perfectly good motor since i got a V8 on the way.or i get another year of play.thankyou for your time in reading this.
stripped holes in head heli-coil would be best way to fix messed up holes but also wont last forever. I would try cleaning the holes with a tap(not sure what size or pitch) and then put a brand new set of plugs in. Thread tape might help for a little while, i have done that before for the same problem ......but it was on a lawn mower.
i work at O'riellys auto parts and we sell the helicoil there.i think its my best bet from what i looked at. someone told me to just do the head "on the car" cause the filings from the tap will just blow/burn out of the cylender?true? i wish i had a huge fridge and everytime i got a good comment on here id open it and give u a beer.
Fill the flutes of the helicoil tap with grease like bearing grease or something like that but it has to be stickey that way the grease will retain the chips formed from the tap. Back the tap out every 3 or 4 turns and clean the flutes that way you can insure that there is not to much build up in the flutes, add more grease and go. I would not reccomend just letting the chips drop in the cylinder because they can get caught in the rings or valves and seriously screw something up.
i agree with markso125 100%. metal shavings + cylinder wall and valves= bad things can an probably will happen.
yeah ive had a fiew cars here and there and these are loose as all hell.threads wore down evenly they thread in perfectly fine just really loose.
the car sat from 92 till 04 would that make them stick? got it started to see if it does anything different AND... i noticed a hard pounding like a rod bearing was completely fried but it only knocked 2 times out of 2 minutes of running then never did it again.it sounded like i was running a steam engine,the motor came to an imediate hault with a slam then it shot gas thru the carb and like 2 foot into the air.started back up and was running again (still running like sh** tho).is this a typical symptom of valve sticking????
valves either built up with carbon or one is burnt or sticking.the engine was glazed really really hard/bad.took valve cover off and could barely scrape it off with a screw driver.same inside the timing cover,oilpan and pickup on pump. i noticed a verry verry thick carbon/lead buildup each cylender today as i inspected them with a miniflashlight.piston AND valves had about a .04 gap!!! worth of crug built up of which i had a verry hard time tryin to even scrap enough off to see the top of the piston.
did about 2 hours of research on stuck valves.Marvel Mystery oil is said to be the best for specificly freeing valves. the #6 exhaust valve is most defenetly stuck i can see it. i hope none of them are bent tomorro i try marvel mystery oil and il update from there.
marvel oil worked somewhat.decided to remove head from motor and disasemble.head will be reworked(40$) and i will clean it and install new valves springs,valves,pushrods etc. il let u know if there are any noticable problems or solutions as to what works best.il have some photos too.
Spark plug problem Your not going to tap anything there without getting shavings in your cylindars and ruining the motor, the correct way is to remove it and disassemble and helicoil but at that point why not replace it with a rebuilder. Id use jb weld on the threads put them in and wait 2 hours before firing it up, you will never get them out but it will seal it and give you 1 plug life anyway before you scrap it.