Ive herd that a 3 or 4 row copper/brass radiator cools just as god or better than an aluminum one.....could someone pleeeez tell me which of the two would be best for my .60 over dailey driver.......
All depends on the total surface area. The number of cores is less important... Yes, copper/brass conducts heat better than aluminum. The reason most factory and high performance radiators are aluminum these days is for strength. Aluminum conducts heat almost as good as copper, but it's much stronger. So they can make wider, flatter rows with aluminum than they can with copper. Typically an aluminum radiator's cores are an inch wide or more. A 2-row or even a 1-row aluminum radiator can usually outperform a copper radiator with more cores, if all other factors are equal.
If that's a .060 over 302, I would think it would be hard to keep cool any way. I've always heard that .040 is the most you want to go for a street car. I'd be interested to see how it goes.
Copper cools better than Aluminum but Brass does not. Aluminum is much better at transfering heat than brass is - almost twice the transfer coefficient. Aluminum is stronger which means that they can use thinner tubes that are larger than the brass tubes used. This means that a two row aluminum radiator will cool better than the three row brass tubes (more actual surface area in the aluminum and better heat transfer). All aluminum (or brass for that matter) radiators are not the same. All Aluminum radiators are lighter than their brass counterparts and in the same overall size the Aluminum radiators will out perform the Brass radiators. Boring a block to .060" over is not going to cause the coolant to overheat. What it can cause is local over-heating of the parts of the metal around the cylinder tops that can crack the walls - but your temperature gauge will never show any of that over-heating. The water temp at the temp probe shows the average temperature of the water as it flows past. Thin metal heats faster - fast enough to keep the coolant from actually touching it to cool it down. If the core of the mold shifted in production then the metal near the top of the cylinder can get very thin and get hot enough to fail. That is the only danger with boring to that extent. Making more HP makes more heat and that is why you need more cooling capacity.
ditto here.060 over on a 302 is a lot. probably gonna run hot no matter what. cylinder walls are awfully thin. good luck
mines .60 302 with some performer rpm head,roller rockers,hooker headers,torker II intake and cam and i had my 2 core radiator on it and it was doin just fine but now that i have a 3 core radiator and gonna be installing a good electric fan on it im sure itll run just cooler now too o and its a stock 3 core radiator too
Were u running a stock fan? I have stock rad and runs cool "180" majority of time. The only time it may go to 200-212 is when I drive freeway speeds and get stuck in slow traffic on hot day. It's not a major issue cuz the car is just a toy- driven ocassionally. Im thinkin abt alum rad and elec fan; already have fan.
If it overheats on the freeway the fan won't do a thing for that - in stop and go traffic the fan will help. If you get a Champion Aluminum radiator it will solve both problems.
