Hey, anyone know where the best place is to get a clutch arm to go from the frame to the bell housing. Or a whole clutch setup that would fit between a 4spd (manual) and my 351w. Would a mustang setup work?
If anyone has a link to a thread that has already talked about this or to an article touching on this topic, that would also work. I've searched but haven't really found anything too helpful.
Do a search on Toploader ... The clutch linkage diagram in a Chilton's will show you all the pieces you need ... Keep in mind original V8 cluch parts are rare ...
Mustang stuff might be a good place to start but I am sure you would have to do some modifying. Have you thought of doing a setup like the late model Stangs? Might be the best way to go. Dan
The T10 is a good trans but not near as strong as the toploader. Its my understanding that Ford developed the toploader to replace the T10 for that very reason. But, the T10 is still a direct replacement and all the dimentions are the same. I have had a bunch of them through the years and still have one in my 57 Rachero. The biggest problem I've seem is the syncronizers seem to wear out causing it to jump out of gears. In my younger years I had them in my 57 Ford and 63 Merc convertable. Both had 390s and both are pretty heavy cars, especially the Merc. It was like 4400 lbs. I never broke the T10 in either.
Mavaholic, What did you have to do to make them work in a Maverick. Anything special? as in certain parts or setups? Any info would be great thanks.
Dont need anything. If your car is a 3 speed manual, it is a direct rplacement. Driveshaft will bolt right up, too. I had a T10 in my Maverick for a few years before the restoration.
Mavaholic, Not sure what it use to be. I think a 3 spd tho. It's a '70 and was an automatic when i got it but before that it was a manual. (still has clutch pedal in it) So if it bolts right on that will be great. But what did you use for the clutch arm that goes from the frame to the bell housing? Thanks for the help.
Mine was a 6 cyl 3 spd manual so when I dropped the 302 in it I had all the linkage already. The 6 cyl Z bar or cross shaft (whichever you call it) needs to be modified to work on a 302, specifically the lower arm to the bellhousing fork. It was almost 20 years ago that I did this so I cant remember exactly what I did. It wasent that difficult as I recall. I didnt even have a welder. I did it all with a set of tourches. Ahh, the good old days.
One caution when putting a 4 speed behind the 351W..... I have run into a problem because the bellhousings that I have (2) are for the small ring gear and I got a large ring gear flywheel for my 351. The bellhousing won't go over the larger ring gear. Now I need to find a bell housing that will fit. (everything is already balanced so I don't want to have to re-balance for a smaller flywheel) any ideas for a trade? PaulS
My understanding with the flywheel/bellhousing issue is that you can put a lakewood scattershield in place and use either flywheel. It takes up less room and is safer. But keep in mind that you need the correct starter for the flywheel that you are using. The only reason that I know this is that I bought a used scattershield and had to ask lakewood the same questions. And just for my .02, the piece of mind that you get from having a scattershield vs. an aluminum bomb under the car is worth the $150 they usually get for them on e-bay. Having said that, keep your eyes open and you can get one for about $75 like I did! I've blown way too many clutches racing the last 20+ years and they've saved my feet on more than one occasion!
Well MNTony, I don't plan to race mine but I am not against getting a $75 bellhousing whether its stamped steel or aluminum. I guess I will have to take a look on E-Bay. PaulS
If you dont have the 3 speed setup for your mav, is it still possible to transplant the t10 in easily? Dont know if i will be able to find one with a 3 speed that i can gut out.
