i have found about 10 different ways to break in piston rings on google so, how did you break in yours? The most common way i have heard is to stomp it 8-10 times
You'll probably get a bunch of different ways on here too. what i've always done is drive at light throttle for like 2 minutes, then run it to 2000. then back to light throttle, then 2500. then back to light throttle, then 3000. then back to light throttle, then 3500. then back to light throttle, then 4000. then back to light throttle, then 4500. then back to light throttle, then 5000. then back to light throttle, then 5500. then back to light throttle, then 6000. then back to light throttle, then 6500. That's how my neighbor explained to it me, i did it on two engines and their still running good today. I don't even know if its the correct procedure, but it worked for me
first or second gear, also you need to let the engine decelerate by itself. It think its to create maximum vacuum. I needed a LONG patch of road for this, i don't think you'll have a problem finding that in KY. But i did here in the city
Depends what kind of rings you're talking about. The above (accelerate and decelerate) is what they used to recommend for cast iron rings. Newer moly sprayed rings (not moly-faced, which I don't even know if they make anymore) seat within about a minute of starting the engine.
that's good to know! I learned that break in procedure from an old timer, so it would make sense. I haven't started on my new Turbo short block, so i better do s'more research
i just fire mine up with no water in it. let it run romping on it a few good times running it to red line getting it real nice and hot. i break it in the way its gonna be drove. HARD. usually when it starts to create steam coming out the thermostat neck i shut it off and then finish it the next day. built quite a few race car motors and havent had a problem yet. whichever way you do choose to seat the rings do it shortly after building the motor. the rings can seize up and never seat no matter how you try and it will always smoke.
Yes and if you are building the motor with a roller cam then the whole thing is broken in by the time the rings seat. Pretty much you can start the motor up dial it in and go.
Moly (plasma spat) rings don't have to be seated - as already stated they seat in the first minute or so. Chrome rings have to be seated under hard acceleration. (without sustained rpm for any length of time) Chrome / moly rings had to be seated with no sustained speeds for a period of about 200 miles with no hard acceleration. Cast rings seat over time with moderate acceleration and decelleration and depending on the fit and finish can take up to 500 miles to seat.
I put my junk together then take it out and beat the ever loving snot out of it..... If it doesn't knock or smoke it must be a good one..... Seriously I haven't every went through any particular break in procedure and have never had any problem with the rings seating..... The only thing that will screw them up for sure is over heating it when you first get it going.....
Who makes chrome/moly rings ? As far as I know, no one does. chrome/moly steel isn't suitable for piston rings.
I would get some EOS (engine oil supplement) from your local GM dealer also. No zinc in most motors oils now....so it's cheap insurance to aid break in of new engine components.
i have the cast rings so i guess its going to be a little bit before i drive it like hell? I did drive the car down the road and back, when i got back Raymond mentioned the 4 quarts of oil under my car lol. Guess i forgot the rear mail seal (retarded rookie)
The bottom half of my motor was built about a 2 months ago , pistons , rings , and main bearings... Will I have a problem with them seating? I saw where someone said they need to be seated within a short time of the engine being built.