Won't work. Not nearly enough heat and pressure to cause the zinc to bond to the engine oil at a molecular level. Without it being part of the oil itself all it will do is end up in the oil filter.
this makes me think of the high sulfur content in GL5 and the Brass components in an aisin5 transmission. might have been able to save a transmission or 2. AX5 is in the 4cyl jeep my brand new transmission didnt last 2 years. i will never use gl5 again if i can help it.
My girl ( who is in college to become a chemical engineer at va tech) says it kinda makes sense if it would erode away but doesn't know for sure if it would work
I just let my engines leak profusely... When the underside of the car is covered in oil, it can't rust!
Yep that would work great so long as your car was under water or you bury it in the ground. Zinc annode needs water/moisture to complete the circuit to the metal it protects. Either of those options makes it hard to take out for a weekend spin. This is reminding me of a current issue in our trade. The auto trade has a big scam going on right now with those rust modules you can have installed with a big price and big warranty. Try and make a claim though. They only allow so much per claim then they cancel the warranty. Our place sells them. Everyone of us techs and body men are sickened by the fact our company sells this product. The vehicles rust just the same as one without. The theory works but whatever the module is attached to must be grounded for the theory to work. They use the same idea on bridges and it works. The bridge is grounded. The Canadian govt. is going after these companies now since they cannot work on a vehicle since it isnt grounded. Please dont let anyone you know buy one of these modules with flashy lights under the hood. Just get the car oil sprayed.
They sell sacrificial anode systems for cars. I don't know exactly what metal is used in those systems, but they are on the market. The condos here on the beach also have something similar where wires are attached to the rebar in the concrete, then attached to sacrificial metal, and then a final wire to an ultra low current power source. Keeps the salt air from rusting the rebar in the concrete and rotting the building from the inside-out. Again, I don't know what metal is sacrificed, but I have been involved in the install of this system, and know it works without the building being flooded or buried. The anodes are kept in closets.
I bet the system your talking about has to be grounded though just like the ones they use on bridges??? Anyhow Zinc cant be used on a car. WIKI... For this mode of corrosion protection to function there must be simultaneously present an electron pathway between the anode and the metal to be protected (e.g., a wire or direct contact) and an ion pathway between the anode and the metal to be protected (e.g., water or moist soil) to form a closed circuit; thus simply bolting a piece of active metal such as zinc to a less active metal, such as mild steel, in air will not furnish any protection
Not saying your wrong... Just seriously interested in the conversation: What about salt air and seriously moist air? We have over 90% humidity where I live for a big part of the entire year. I wonder if moistness like that would make it work?
Not sure how it would benefit a car's body, as they're now pretty well protected from rust anyway. The steel body parts are galvanized with zinc before painting.
I would venture to say "yes", but the effects would most likely be so negligible that you probably couldn't even measure it without some big-time laboratory tools. BUT...that gets me wondering... Down here, I run a rubber static strip on the bottom of both daily drivers. During the winter months when the fronts blow through, and humidity is low, we get a static shock when we step out of our car and touch it. POP! But during the humid months, it is not needed. This may be some proof that the electricity actually CAN travel through that humid air, and the humid air allows those electrons to flow off the car so that I don't get POPed when I step out of the car.
Zinc plating works for a short time - the zinc wears away, Zinc oxide paint works to resist rust but only until it chips or wears off, Paint and other air tight coatings work but only until they chip or wear off. The old cast pistons used to be zinc coated but it was to hold oil and not to prevent corrosion. It has been a long time since I looked into the manufacture of pistons so they might still be coated with something to hold oil because aluminum doesn't lubricate well.
it seems to me like if we set up a grounding rod and attached that to our sacrificial medium itt could work. sooo in my mind a small hook mounted on the frame with a cable running to the rod would make this work. maybe one of those corkscrew dog leash things would work great for that?
You won't drive very far with that hook in the ground! Do you know how long it takes for a zinc plate to react in salt water? Do you know what it is doing? All that zinc does is corrode first so the boat doesn't - it isn't going to help your engine oil at all. If you are talking about body and frame rust then you should know that just cleaning and painting it with POR 15 or similar product will do a lot more to preserve it and keep any rust that is there from getting worse. Leave the zinc to the boats that don't have an alternative.
