i hope you guys can bare with this thread its going to kind of be long but ill try to make it short and simple. thanks i have just rebuilt my 8in with 4.11 gears and a mini spool ive never done it before but had a video come with my richmond gears and i watched it a million times and followed it step by step. and i have howling of the rear or bearings something only when i let off of the gas and its decelerating. is something set wrong or a simple fix?? also i have a 289 engine in her now been sitting for 18 years i cleaned it up and re-gasketed it had only 5000 miles before my parked his mustang back then. im having a overheating probably heating up to about 215-225 and then water blowes out my over flow this is what i know and have done what should i change or do differently 180 thermostat 16 electric fan mounted as a puller out of a 96 cougar 4.6l all new radiator transmision cooler mounted infront of the radiator and lastly the 289 seems like not having power im running a tci 1600 stall converter still i dont know if thats an issue with the 4.11 gears. i bumped the spark plug gap up to .045 because of the ignitor II ignition system and the spark plugs are very clean like they are burning lean but i dont know if that the heating probably? or if i have some other thing to check. thanks guys you are always a huge help
the howling on coast is usually one of three things. 1 a poorly manufactured gear set. ive seen no shortage of these. with the movement of production to off shore manufactures its become very hard to get a good gear set. 2 not set up correctly with pinion depth or back lash. what did your pattern look like? did you run a pattern? 3 pinion crush sleeve not fully crushed. this will allow the pinion to move and maintain correct contact with the ring gear? so you most likely got a richmond gear set sense you have a video from them. i have seen their quality drop substantially over the last 7 years. there is not much you do about this. how did you crush the crush sleve and what was the rolling resistance you set it too? did you happen to take pics of the contact pattern?
It is richmond gears. I crushed the crush sleve with my impact driver got it as tight as it would go. I set the everything to what the video said can't remember off the top of my head and the pattern was dead center on bother sides of the gear.
sounds like the rear-end is bound up somehow. this would,...if your running an automatic trans, cause the trans to overwork, generating way too much heat. sence the trans coolant lines run through the radiator, it will overheat the engine.
tight as in the nut wouldn't turn any more, or the pinion was hard to rotate. Bryant is probably dead on with the uncrushed crush sleeve. The pinion should have slight resistance to turn by hand after it's properly crushed. in/lb dial type torque wrench is good for this but a beam type can be used as well. I have had some crush sleeves that required a good sized breaker bar to get enough force to crush them of late and my impact doesn't have the stones to do it anymore even with 120psi line pressure. The gear I bought is setup perfectly(rolled a great pattern, backlash on the tight end of spec and even in 4 places) preload is good and carrier preload is good and it howls like hell at 80mph. It's a Yukon gear and when I called to see if they would do anything for me, they said "that's the way some of them are". If you want a quiet gear, you may be better off used.
I have an external trans cooler that I have mounted infront of the radiator and my buddy was thinking that the gears are to much for the torque convertor. In fact overheating the trans and the radiator. Thing that could be my issue? And loss of power?
Is your trans cooler still run through the radiator cooler as well or is it a stand alone in front of the radiator? Overheating the trans fluid can make it run hotter. You could verify that by putting a trans fluid temp gauge in, which I would do anyway if I were running an auto with a high stall converter.
The pinion gear had resistance on it the video didn't have anything on gaugeing it but I could be wrong. Could I have it too tight?? I don't have it running thur the radiator just the external cooler infront of the radiator. The coverter I have is only a 1600 stall I think I migt be too low for the 4.11 gears?
Could just be the cut of the gear. Like Bryant said, some of these gears for sale lately just aren't the quality they used to be. How big is the radiator and does it overheat just after running it hard, during, or just at idle? Lean conditions, spark advance, too hot of plug, are just a few combustion related problems that can lead to overheating, but don't overlook coolant flow and radiator airflow as possibilities. Is the cooling fan shrouded and pulling good air flow? A chemical block test can identify leaking head gaskets or cracked heads.
Well one things for sure. If you didnt guage the resistance of the pinion gear after(during) tourqing the nut down, crushing the bearing sleeve and properly seating the pinion bearing assembly,...your in trouble. It could be too loose or to tight, because your just guessing. It needs to be percise. Sucks, but sometimes you cant cut any corners on some things. The good news is, it may need to be tighter. If its too tight, thats too bad man. As for the overheating problem, the aftermarket trans cooler mite be blocking too much of the radiator. Try relocating the cooler with its own fan and thermostat. that way you'll lower the temp much better and not resrict the air flow to the engine. the factory radiator could need a good flushing also. Good luck.
I really hope it is just the cut of the gear and I did it all right but this howls loud could maybe over adjuating the rear brakes/ebrake and put stress or loads on the gearing? Radiator is a new stock side from advance it worked for my old 302 and the electric fan is new haven't built a shroud just yet but it pulls air flow straight thur more than the old machical fan di. Let me add this we drove her back roads nevergot over 45mph have no hood on her either. Have no power for some reason press the gas takes a while to get moving and with fresh engine and 4.11 would throw me In the seat. But its like a slug. Just crusing it heated right on up to 225 with the fan o. So I killed the engone and pulled over and waited 2 hours for it cool down below 150 then droce the 15mins back home and heated up to 200 right as I pulled in the driveway. No idling just crusing petal down just not goimg anywhere
any chance the balancer has spun and/or the pointer is in the wrong spot and the timing is way off? the brake adjustment shouldn't affect gear noise but the brakes might make noise if they aren't properly adjusted
I had the same issue with mine when I put it together. I just couldn't crush the sleeve enough with my garage tools. I drove it with that whine when I let off the gas for about 5 years, and finally took the pumpkin in to a driveline shop and told them to check out the specs. They said it was within specs but the crush sleeve wasn't crushed enough. So they put extra pressure on it, crushed it like it needed to be, and gave it back, and charged me $75. It has been silent ever since. I hope that is all you have to have done to quiet yours up...
There is a number you are shooting for here. Rotating resistance (pinion bearing pre-load), with just ring, pinion and case, on new bearings, should be 10-15 in_lbs (someone please correct this number if I'm off for the 8" Ford). A beam type torque wrench is ideal here. That is odd that the video did not mention anything about this. The problem with impact wrenches is that they are either too fast to tighten this safely or not strong enough to reach it. The point at which you achieve the pre-load happens quickly, and should be done with a 4:1, or similar, torque multiplier.
I did this same thing with an old engine. Had the same problem with overheating. Turn out that the coolant that had been in the block and heads all those years had hardened up and blocked the passages. Not sure if you could get the block and heads flushed out or not? Good luck.
