Trying to make a specialized wild mule guess-check for wires grounding-touching the steering collumn in the engine bay.Then check your fuel tank sending unit,mainly the sock at the fuel pick up tube. look for trash ,hair and sometimes the sock can fold over and block fuel. These ford systems are really simple when you learn them.Get her cruizin get her done! Let us know.
Check your ignition switch...Its mounted on top of the column,under the dash. It may be loose and grounding/shorting out or improperly installed/ adjusted. (For the following you can just pull the fuses but,sometimes a short will render the fuse useless, so you may have to do the following...Here goes)...If you dont find anything wrong at the ignition switch...Unplug the horn and see what happens...Still no result...Disconnect the turn signal/hazzard harness and see what happens.You obviously have an electrical issue...Something is grounding/shorting out causing the electrical signal to your coil to drop out or battery power to the ignition system to go away momentarily. Is your battery firmly mounted??? Do you have good connections at the battery/battery side of the starter solinoid???
Thxs everyone for the advice much appreciated. I removed the steering wheel and turned the wheel an felt a shock and heard a spark and car died so I'm in the process of finding the electrical problem. I know it's somewhere in the steering column.
Fuel pump question So far I found a vacuum leak where the carb adapter meets the intake manifold so I changed the gaskets and all is well. Found rust in the fuel filter big chunks so I'm going to take out the tank and have it reconditioned. My question is if I need a new fuel pump do they make them anymore? Also the motor in it is not the original motor it's a ford 302 from a truck but im not sure what year or model of the truck do I need to find a fuel pump for a ford 302 or a fuel pump for a 1970 maverick? I also set the idle at 1 thousand rpm when it's in park and 850 when it's in drive does that sound right? Thxs everyone for the advice so far
I'm new to this, but will I have a problem with It fitting in the tank or anything? Does it matter that I have a different motor than the original 6 cylinder if I get the fuel pump that the car originally came with
well? it has been awhile since the last post on this issue.... I have the same issue with my 73 mav w/ 302 starving for fuel when i acdcelerate. Idles great. replaced the points/wires/dis cap/ rotor button/fuel pump-filter(clean fuel from tank) 6 months ago. I have replaced plugs 3 times in that last 2 months from fouling. I hope my rings did not go from driving the car nearly empty of oil. but it smokes white like a train sometimes and smoke all the time now...need to get the gear to do a leak down test.....compression test. vaccum gauge reads good...timing is at 14-15 btdc(whatever is to the right of tdc. Would like to know what came of your issue... maybe u guys can tell me something i am forgetting. i just rebuilt the holley carb too. may go back to 2brrl, have not decide yet. valve seals look great....this engine is suppose to be a rebuilt oreilleys 302 with nearlt 18k on it.
You can check the pcv valve in the valve cover. check to see if its sucking up oil. I have had to put a restrictor in the pcv hose to slow the vacume.
interesting i could try that..... the valve works but there has been oil(til tonight) being kicked out around the breather that has the pcv hooke up to it
cannot remember what the edelbrock looks like but I use to own a comet and there was a breather on one valve cover and an oil fill cap type on the other valve cover. no pcv and just a small 8 inch air cleaner. my maverick ran great when i bought it a year and a half ago though
Check the vacuum line to the modulator (at the transmission) for oil residue. If there is oil in the line replace the modulator. ATF burns with white smoke.
Yes Paul, was thinking that too....going to take it off in a bit and check it out.... The modulator is cheaper than the one i bought last year....under$10 now!
