Best way to remove surface rust from sheetmetal?

Discussion in 'Technical' started by ford84stepside, Dec 1, 2011.

  1. ford84stepside

    ford84stepside Lone Wolf

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    I bought a Year of manufacture license plate that has a good bit of surface rust, more on the back than the front. I need something to soak the rust off as much as possible. I don't want to sand too much as it's thin metal. I have some Ospho, would that do it? Or vinegar? I don't want to eat the metal up. Not worried about the paint, I'm gonna repaint it anyway.
     
  2. rthomas771

    rthomas771 Member

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  3. Jsarnold

    Jsarnold Senior Member

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    I like the "rust bucket" electrolysis technique too. I use that for heavy rust with pitting. But if its just surface rust OSPHO and a wire brush will make it look like new. Wet the license plate well with OSHPO and let it sit for about 20 min. Wet it again, wire brush it and wipe the mud off. Repeat if necessary and surface rust will be completely removed leaving new looking metal. At least it worked for me on some quarter skins with significant surface rust.
     
  4. Joe Dirt

    Joe Dirt BBF life

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    Ospho is great stuff just keep it wet. And let it work
     
  5. socalcomet

    socalcomet Member

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    Harbor Freight has that rust remover chemical where you soak the part and it comes out clean. Can't remember the name of it though.
     
  6. Dave B

    Dave B I like Mavericks!

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    I've used this stuff:
    http://www.evaporust.com/

    Do you have to have the plates checked before you use them? Some states won't let you repaint them, from what I've read over on the HAMB.
     
  7. PaulS

    PaulS Member extrordiare

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    Molassis and water - at warm temps works really well on badly rusted parts but for surface rust use Naval jelly or other light rust remover. Be sure to dry it well - I like to use my parts oven at 350F for an hour then paint it while it is warm with enamel paint. That seals out any moisture and prevents rust in the future.
     
  8. 71gold

    71gold Frank Cooper Supporting Member

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    glassbead...that will leave an...etched...surface for the primer to bite to...:thumbs2:
     
  9. predfan2001

    predfan2001 David in Tn

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    CLR from Walmart or your local hardware store.
     
  10. Jsarnold

    Jsarnold Senior Member

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    A guy who knows a lot about a lot of things said that the parts coming out of the electrolysis bath will immediately begin to rust at the microscopic level due to being so clean. I always treated them immediately with OSPHO to prevent that. That kept the treated quarter skins looking new for weeks till some primer was applied.
     
  11. ford84stepside

    ford84stepside Lone Wolf

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    They have to check the numbers to make sure that they are not in use in any year. We are allowed to refinish them in any way as long as they are the original colors or close to them. My plate is for the 36, and the number system for back then is different than what they used for the later years, so I'm pretty sure I will be able to use it. I've also got one for the Maverick, but it's from a different county, so I'm just running it on the front with the regular vintage plate on the rear. If and when I find one with my county number prefix, 32-XXXX, I'll trade in the vintage plate and run the YOM plate.

    Thanks for the suggestions, I'll be giving them a try in the near future!:Handshake
     
  12. Dave B

    Dave B I like Mavericks!

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    Up here, we have to send them in for inspection, after you get the number cleared over the phone. No repaints or touch ups allowed, and it only cost $225.00 to get them activated, and $74.00 a year after that....I have a super clean set of 1973 Ontario plates, I'm going to send them in over the winter.
     
  13. ford84stepside

    ford84stepside Lone Wolf

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    OUCH!!!! Ours are the same price as the vintage plate, $25, and that's one time only, never pay again!
     

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