Thanks. I am under the impression that with this set up the engine will produce more torque than HP. My rear end is already back braced. Not sure of the splines. I don't want to pull it off it's storage lift until I finish installing the dual carbed tunnel rammed 408 / 4L80E combo in my 70 Camaro. Then before that I need to put my 72 Vette up on the lift for the new magnaflow exhaust system. After that I probably will be able to get to the Maverick. I am testing the waters with the knowledge back on here for the time being. I am not going to build another 8 to 10 thousand dollar motor. I will run the 460's till they grenade. They are extremely cheap around here. Not sure what they sell for in other areas. 300 to 400 dollars plus cometic head gaskets and ??? then run it. It will be driven on the street and maybe see the track once or twice for test and tune.
As for the cranks, the only FE motor that had a forged steel crank was the 427. Some of the FT motors had steel cranks but you need to have the front snout machined down to fit any FE pulley or harmonic balancer and even if you used it you would have a destroked 460 because the stroke was....I believe 3.5 because the biggest motor was 391ci. If you are shooting for 700lbft of torque you will need forged crank, rods, pistons. Now with that said if you keep the boost down and shoot for under 600lbft of torque you may make the motors survive for awhile.
429 and 460 engines are not FE motors or am I mistaken? FE are the 360, 390 and 428 from my memory if I am not mistaken. Regardless of what I do I am not going to build another big money engine to only run 5 or 6 times a year. What would you recommend to be the maximum boost you would throw at a open chambered head low compression 460?
I would not run a cometic head gasket on an engine with cast pistons. Use a stock replacement head gasket with a stainless fire ring. You'll want the head gasket as a fuse instead of just blowing holes in the pistons. I think you'd probably be safe on 10psi.
Thanks on the boost and head gasket information correcting what I have seen a guy do on the internet. He is using a plain 460 and added twin turbo's but he used it in a fairmount. Talk about a sick ride.
Yeah, no doubt the stock heads are near junk when it comes to total flow capability(particulalry the exhaust side). But positive charge pressure has a funny way of overcoming some weaknesses up to a degree. About 10 years ago I saw dyno runs of a supposedly stock bottem ended 429(minus the blower pistons) in a 70' Torino making an easy 490 horse to the wheels with a larger 70'ish mm single setup. Torque was well over 500 too. But.. that motor has a really short stroke(3.59) and has much better rod ratio for higher rpm piston stability. For a 3.85 stroke crank.. you should figure on about a 5,200- 5,400'ish max rpm limit with those stock bottom end setups. With those stock part limitations in mind.. using 2 x "too small turbo's" would be far better than having 2 x "too large turbo's". Quicker spool/more midrange torque will let you run a steeper gear for the street too. Bonus. If your power expectation is within reason.. and it surely is with that much airflow potential.. you can stretch those stock parts more than most will realize if they are mod'd and prepared correctly. But.. when she decides to let go.. and eventually she will.. everyone will know it. Just be sure to use a good scattershield and floorpan reinforcement or a blanket. Those parts are heavy! lol PS. you'll never make that motor survive the tuning and dial in at 10lbs. Think 7-8 psi and keep in mind how large those slugs are. I've seen plenty of turboed bone stock Chev big blocks pushing over 500 horse on STOCK CAMS! There are tons of turbo sleepers out there and that's how all this turbo stuff started out in backyards many years ago. If you can weld it and make it fit.. it can be done. What are you going to do about the valvetrain? Stock cam? Cuz that would be a mistake since that would be the way to tune everything to work together and compensate for the heads shortcomings. Cam alone would allow 40-50 more horse on such a beast.
Thanks for kicking me in the head, I guess this cold and the meds killed some more brain cells. You are right, FE motors are 332,352,360,361,390,406,410,427,428, and FT motors were 330,359,361, 389,391. Ford never produced a 460 steel crank but did produce truck cranks that were steel for the 429, but these have the 3.59" stroke.....,and even then you will have to deal with machining the snout down. I suppose you could offset grind the 3.59 throws to 2.20 which is I think a BBC size and should give you 3.85 stroke. These cranks only came in 1979 to 1986 Ford Commercial trucks, like the F600, F700, and F800 trucks. Find one of those and you could build a killer 429 on the cheap.
As I said earlier, Ford never produced a factory steel crank for the 460. They offered a 4340 crank in their FFHP catalogs...........but they were built by Moldex.
Well, I removed an engine from a 83 U haul truck which I am under the impression is a 460. It is a relatively fresh Jasper rebuild with low mileage according to Jasper after I called them with the Jasper number. Now, are the 3Y crankshafts steel or cast? They were used in heavy truck and marine applications for many years. Most marine engines, due to their high rpm continous high RPM use, from what I have experianced are steel cranks. Just wondering.
The 3YA or 3Y is a cast crank. As mentioned before, Ford never made any steel cranks for the 460. As far as Ford Marine engines, 99% used cast cranks, even the engines they designated "M" or "MA". I have seen a number of 427 marine engines (standard and reverse rotation) and they all had the C5JE or the C6JE cranks.....................................................which were cast. Now this was back in the day (some 35 years ago) when I raced a lightweight Galaxie 427/4spd. Here is a picture of a 3YA crank; http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-460-7-5L-Truck-Marine-CrankShaft-Casting-3Y-/200652066833
One last thing to add.................at least for FBB Marine engines.........that they turned relatively low RPMs..............between 4500/5000rpm.
Thats cool and thank you. I can't see paying $800.00 for a crank to put in an engine which will be driven only on occasion. I have done that enough with my other cars. I guess it is run um till you blow um since they are so cheap. Just thought it would be a cool idea.
I would also think that even 5 to 6 psi would be a vast improvement. BTW, what camshaft would you recommend? Valvetrain? New lifters and I am sure the camshaft will require better than stock springs depending how much of an increase we are talking about with lift over stock. Other than that I would say stock.
The only $800 cranks you will find are the ones made in China, good cranks like Bryant, Crower, Moldex are just a little more expensive. Since it looks like you can work on motors, I'd just blueprint the short block which should't be very expensive..............then do some porting/polishing on the heads.................and call it good. Like I said before, I believe 5/7psi would be about the limit for stock shortblock.............................IMHO
