So, the car will likely have a decent street/strip rake to it though right? or are you going for that more nuetral leveled road racer look? Personally.. I think you're really close to it being a non-issue when all is in palce and the thing gets lowered down onto its own weight. But.. like I said above though.. if it bothers you enough?.. just fix it with slight pan mod. Like you've said before.. "it's only metal". Not to mention that one little piece is pretty small in the scheme of things you've already tackled here. Think of it as the cherry.. on the bottom. lol I looked harder at the spec's for that pan.. and like the 460 pans similar to that which I've run in the past.. you have plenty of room for a deeper notch if you aren't running a girdle or full length scraper. It's a 4.75 deep pan at the belly which easily gives you more than an inch to play with while still maintaining enough distance from the main cap bolts/studs to prevent oil bounce issues. Or.. at the very least.. don't notch it.. and fill that void with a proper screen type scraper to supplement that measily rail type scraper.
Having built a couple of custom pans before.......................I'd say you have gotten everything you can from placing the motor and using the Canton pan...........................I don't think you could much more with the pan/motor/suspension................unless you went with a dry sump setup...................hey, it's only money.........right? I think you've done a great job doing somebody said couldn't be done, but that whats Hot Rodding is all about. As a side note, I helped a friend with his Cleveland in a 32 Ford, and when it was sitting on jack stands the dual 4's looked about the same angle as in your picture............but down on the ground with the "Big & Littles" and with the hotrod rake..............it came out to less than 3 degrees towards the rear...............and although we made the sheet metal top for the Weiand...............it ran like a scalded Ape................but only got about 8 miles per gallon...............when his foot got heavy As a side note, we did change to small Holleys to try and get better mileage.............actually gained a mile or two................but he still got under 10............with his heavy foot.
I have to agree with you - it took a lot of work to get everything I've gotten out of it to this point of being "only" 6 degrees back I appreciate that and I sure enjoy seeing what you have also accomplished with your own car Well I only got 8 mpg driving this drivetrain around for 4 years in my 72 Gran Torino Sport when it was stock so with all of the mods - I'd say I'm screwed These are only 450's - I got them from a guy who ran them on a 440 Magnum but switched over to 600's[/QUOTE]
The other day, I had asked Summit if they sold a dual quad top that had the carb mounting surfaces on a reverse angle and I did get an answer to my question today. It turns out that Summit sells a Moroso 5 degree carb mounting wedge plate - how simple of a solution was that? I still can't figure out how you do not misalign the straight up threaded holes in the manifold or carbs installing this plate but it is good to know that there is a final solution - if I wind up needing it
The angle top your thinking of are for marine use for when boat is on plane to get it back to seven to ten deg.
I found these wedges up to 12 degrees for the marine use but this one sold by Summit is in fact 5 degrees. It will take me to where my carbs will only be tilted back 1 degree if it comes to that
at least until the front end rises up on full throttle bursts. Especially with drag shocks and no sway bar. lol Mine gave me all sorts of tuning issues until I spent the time to sort it all out with a combination of mod's. Fine tuning emulsion holes because of fuel level changes caused from heavily canted carb/s is not much fun at all. Front's get submerged too heavily unless you lower the float.. and the rears need to be damn near spitting out the vents to keep the plate in fuel. You can of course tune these issues out somewhat.. but who wants to rob peter to pay paul just for the sake of compensation. It's hard to tell from the pic's so far.. but IMHO, once you get the front end down on the ground.. it won't be that extreme.
That's where I figure I'm at right now with the angle. I'm gonna wait an see if I truly have a problem or not. It's nice to know these wedge plate exist if, in fact, I need them but at 33 bucks a plate, they will be my last resort. Do you know of any tuning issues running the carbs sideways?
I just assumed that you knew there were wedge plates available and didn't think to even mention them earlier. Personally.. I don't like to have too many gaskets and failure points and usually weld them on after correcting the stud angles. They also come in phenolic(which may not be the best for a tunnel ram since you can use all the heat you can get with that design) and from more than a few other suppliers as well. Most of which will be about twice as much as the Summit/Jegs stuff. And you're right to assume that they will in fact throw the carbs baseplate off in orientation to the studs. 2 ways that I've seen it done. Most difficult involves modding the studs(easiest I've seen is to use AL threaded plugs tack welded into place and then retap the new holes partially through them). Easiest is to just use angled washers with slight hole elongation depending on the wedges degree of angle. Those are pretty minor and would be a cakewalk compared to the heavy angles. As for tuning issues. In the extreme you would have fuel levels higher up on one side of the sep plate and the emulsion holes/boosters would not recieve fuel equally. Therefore causing one side of the carb to run leaner than the other. Slosh foam and rear extensions will help but you'll likely still have tuning issues galore there bud. But again.. I don't think yours will be that bad in the end. PS. are you still running choke horns on those 450's? If so I would hack them off with a saw and run stubstacks in their place. One of the cheapest and best mod's you can do to them and you won't regret it. Crap!.. I gotta quit typing so damned fast due to all the time I spend on fixing my pistakes and pisprints. My speeling is purdy bad sometimes two. LOL
I have never run a tunnel ram myself, but would assume that the carbs you have are mechanical secondaries............right? I thought there were a couple of guys here than run tunnel rams on the street..................would be a good question to ask them. I really don't see much of problem as this is a street tunnel ram, not race.. difference being the Weiand has very little plenum, where a race tunnel has mostly on open plenum................................. As for the 6/7 degrees..............I have always tried to stay with the rule of thumb................Crank angle/tailshaft angle should be around 3 degrees, which in most single carb applications puts the carb base at around 0 degrees. If you put the car down on all fours at whatever ride height you are going to run and still have 5 degrees or more I'd space/wedge them back to as close as 0 degrees as you can get........................IMHO A couple of questions...........what trans are you running, what is the CR of the motor.................last, what rear gears are you going to run? Love this forum!
You are correct I'm thinking that I know where you're going with these questions - the loss of low end using the high rise? When I had the stroker built - it was built with this manifold in mind from the very start - I must have made 3 calls to Comp Cams before the cam was chosen - my compression is 10:5 to 1 - transmission is a top loader 4 speed and I already changed the gears over to 390's ans I agree with your "Love this forum" comment
The choke horns are still in place but no choke plates - I certainly will keep your suggestion in mind when the time comes - what are we talking about when you say "stubstacks"?
What Gary is talking about would require you to mill the choke horns down. http://www.knfilters.com/racing/stubstacks.htm
