I put the right parts (according to part numbers) in mine too but the new flexplate wasn't (im)balanced correctly. Replaced the flex plate and the problem was solved. If the car shakes worse as you rev it above idle its probably a balance problem. If the car shakes less as you rev it above idle its probably a misfire.
It definitely shakes worse as I rev it up. It's noticeable at around 1000 RPM and is at it's worst between 2000-2500 RPM. At around 2700 RPM it starts to even back out some. Were there any noticeable issues on the flywheel that let you know it wasn't right? Just the vibration? Can any carb related issues give me this same problem? Plugs wires maybe?
The flexplate looked fine. It just wasn't balanced correctly. Does the exhaust sound like the engine isn't running right? Can you take the car to someone that can look at it and tell you if the engine is missing or there's a balance problem? Kinda hard to say for sure without being there.
Inside the car, it doesn't sound bad when at the RPMs where it's really vibrating badly. I'll try setting the RPMs under the hood and then go listen to the exhaust. Tomorrow I'm going to check my distributor cap/rotor and all my plug wires and pull each one individually to see if I find one that's bad. If that all looks good, I'm going to pull my carb and clean it really good and check to see if the power valve is bad and if I have any clogged passages. I would rather try to see if the problem is something other than the flywheel before I take it back to the shop. The mechanic did quite a bit of digging around to find out what the problem was, and he said he though it might be my carb. If after checking the ignition and carb and I still have a problem, I'll take it back to him to find out what's wrong. I just really don't want a motor imbalance tearing up a fresh rebuild.
You should be able to compare the size of the weight on the flex plate with a known correct one, if it's a different size there's your problem... EDIT Also should compare the position of the weight, possibly it's the correct plate but weight was welded in incorrect position.. Can do so by checking distance from a converter stud...
Nevermind. Driving home last night and the car threw a rod. Hopefully the guy that rebuilt the motor will cover it under his warranty like he said he would. I can't believe this crap.
Interesting question... a engine could no doubt shake it's self apart if imbalance is bad enough... I've never seen a thrown rod that didn't happen at high RPM or had been making a noise from loose rod bearing or wrist pin for sometime before it happened...
The trans had just downshifted to 2nd under mild acceleration and the rod busted at around 3500RPM or so. The reason I know is because my speedo broke just after getting my car back from the transmission shop and I have to watch my tach to know about how fast I'm going. Other than the recent vibration, I hadn't had any problems on the motor side of things...no sounds, no vibrations, etc.
i would suspect that the rod bolts were not replaced when the motor was rebuilt. they may have been over torqued. how do you know it broke a rod? i would assume that it has a rod hanging out of a hole.
I would say...yes... don't tell your motor Guy about the transmission. try to keep them two different issues.
Yep, had a hole in my oil pan. The shop guy said it busted the block, crank, cam and starter. Not good. I hope to find out within the next couple days if that motor rebuilder is going to honor his warranty.
The guy who rebuilt the motor is only picking up the motor...so he shouldn't see the transmission itself....but the mechanic who rebuilt the transmission may have told him when he picked up the motor that the trans was recently rebuilt.
