I have not tried another gauge but I know something is wrong w/ the engine. When it was running right it pulled 14" vac. I will try another one. Thanks for all the suggestions. It's been over 35yrs since I had the heads off an engine with move than one cylinder..
My friend thinks it maybe a intake manifold leak/crack. We will get bk on it Saturday as his time permits...Nx move -- remove inspect/reseal and possibly replace. Want to get back on the road...PERIOD
Everett, IMHO you don't have a compression problem. The engine should run just fine with the compression readings you got. You solved the blow-by problem so I don't think you should be worried about pistons, rings or valves. Your vacuum advance holds a vacuum so the diaphram isn't ruptured. Do you have an extra set of valve covers you could cut the tops off? If you installed covers with the tops cut off you can idle the engine without spilling a lot of oil. I'd want to do that and observe the rocker arms to see if they're all popping up about the same amount. I'm wondering if one or more lobes are gone on the cam. If the rockers are operating properly, THEN I'd be thinking about pulling the front cover to check the timing chain and sprockets. I could be way off -- the other guys posting have a lot more experience. Just offering an opinion here.
first of all.. don't completely trust the vac pump guages readings. Through the years I've gone through 2 of the cheaper models until I finally broke down and bought a more expensive one which is rebuildable. Easy vac guage functionality test is to plug the hose with a nail(bolts can leak around the threads unless you use teflon tape).. pump it up to about 20lbs and let it sit for more than 5 minutes to verify that it isn't leaking internally. If it tests out good?.. then you do in fact have a very slow leak in the vac pot.. but IMHO.. with a "half hour leakdown" it wouldn't be severe enough to cause the issues you're seeing here. You would however want to test it at higher vacuum readings to see if the leak is potentially compounded since many motors will make far beyond 20 lbs of vacuum.. especially when coming down quickly(fully closed throttle plates) from higher rpm's.. so the vac diaphram has been designed for it. As for the oil injection technique causing hydro locking?.. never gonna happen unless you were to shoot near 100cc's of liquid down the spark plug hole. All it takes is a meat injector syringe(cleaner method).. or a clean section of vac hose dipped into the oil(messy method). Just be sure to hold your finger over the other end of the hose( like you would with a straw when trying to pick up liquid with it).. after dipping it into the oil about 2 inches. Depending on the hose size used.. that would equal about 2-3 cc's of oil and won't do any harm whatsoever. That'll help you pinpoint ring sealing issues a bit better. Personally.. I prefer to use transmission fluid since it burns off quicker and has a slight cleaning effect while your at it. I do believe that Jsarnold could be right though.. and you may have other issues since those compression readings wouldn't cause such major issues like you're seeing here.
Thanks for the advice "Mr. Roberts101. I do have a new "never used" syringe for mixing oil/gas for outdoor equipment, mainly for my gas powered RC aircraft. I was not up on how much oil to use so did'nt want to screw-up. Also, wanted to know if anyone here has used this method; can't believe a lot of stuff on the net. Will use the trans fluid @ 2-3cc's.
I think I/we got it figured out today. Smoke was coming frm the breather cap cuz I had the PCV connected to wrong place. I have a vac leak @ frt drv's side carb base w/ a spacer "alum" between manifold and carb. He sprayed carb cleaner there and engine immediately changed tunes. So I think, I am on track to be mobile soon. Hopefully, I can concentrate on other upgrades and still enjoy CRUZIN season. Thanks to my 2 friends & brother giving me a hand, esp., w/ temps in the low 40's and 15mph steady winds. I probably wud not have been out in the garage had they not committed to assisting me today. I take help when it's available; I make my schedule align w/ whoever is willing to help. I Once w/ made progress I closed shop and will work on it when the wx is more condusive to being in the garage "in the 60's tommorrow.
Yep! I think that has to be the biggest part of the problem, if not the complete cure. Once we got the engine running, working in the garage w/ all doors and windows opened we were OK... engine heat makes a big difference. U did'nt have to include the part abt the balmy 80's. I shud be able to sleep better now that have a clue what to do next....
