Lockers, Trac-Locks and whatnot...

I think the time is coming soon to stop screwing around and finally address the one major piece missing from my car - a proper rearend. I've got plenty of power and a ton of torque that I can't even begin to use because of this stock open diff.

I've talked about doing the Explorer swap before, but I've resolved to just build the 8". The car is an automatic, specs are in my sig. It's been to the track and I intend to take it there a lot more, (right now there's no point) but primarily it's a driver and it does see highway use. Occasionally I'll even take road trips in it and I'm probably not getting an overdrive transmission any time soon, so I've opted for a 3.25 gears. Already got them, and I've even got the speedometer gear to match it, assuming my math is right.

Annnd... I bought a mini spool, because I am impulsive, and occasionally an idiot. I have come to my senses though, because while I think I'm a good enough driver to control it, (who doesn't?) if anything tragic ever did happen I'd never forgive myself, plus I can imagine it would get very annoying.

So, I need a Trac-Lock, (Track-Loc, Trac-Loc, Track-Lock, whatever. Just use both damn K's, Ford, nobody can keep it straight) or a Powertrax Lock-Right, Yukon, Eaton, Auburn, Detroit, etc. Something like that.

I want to consider the pros and cons of the different types of lockers/LSD's. Here's what I already know:

Powertrax and Detroit EZ Lockers install like mini spools, inside the open carrier. Nothing special has to happen, keep stock bearings, maybe upgrade the crosspin. They're priced reasonably, they do the job, and they make an "annoying" ratcheting sound when you turn, from what I gather. I haven't heard this sound so I don't know how annoying it really is. Apparently they last as long as you aren't running crazy HP and slicks.

Trac-Locks are a carrier replacement. There's more to the install, the gears will have to be re-shimmed to mesh right, but that's it. (Right?) No other special components required except maybe a diff fluid additive? The price is reasonable. They wear out eventually but they're rebuildable. They're not as consistent as a locker but they are the most well-mannered on the street.

Yukon's Trac-Lock, Dura-Grip and Grizzly lockers require special bearings included in their own install kits which add a fair amount to the price... Price isn't the only factor but price IS a factor, and so is the amount of work I'll have to do.

Eaton Truetrac. Worm gear driven, no clutches, otherwise acts like a Trac-Lock? Anything I need to know about installing one of these, such as a need for special bearings or bolts? Apparently there's a Detroit Truetrac too, (or are they the same?) and it requires special bearings. (Or do they both? Or do they all?)


As you can probably tell, I read a lot but I have no experience with any of this so I need to lean on people who do, so here's what I'm looking for.

I want something that's not going to be an ordeal to install. The time I get for my own projects lately is limited so the last thing I want is to think I have everything I need, reserve the time, tear into it and find out I have to order something else, or something I'll need to take apart again and adjust. (This makes "lunchbox lockers" like the Powertrax attractive.) I need to start and finish this in the same day, ideally.

I want decent street manners. It doesn't have to be silent but I also don't want everyone turning their heads and wondering what the hell I just ran over every time I park it. I don't know what that "ratcheting sound" people complain about is really like and I don't know if it would bother me. I've got no frame of reference, how loud is this really?

I want predictability. If it's going to get sideways when I hit the gas in a turn, or if it's going to spin a little and kick to one side when I launch, fine. Just do it the same way most of the time, maybe please?

Thanks, as always.:Handshake

 

wow! that was perfect! i to have been looking thru all the crap and wondered the same things. well put!i have stopped from putting anything in my rearends (you notice plural so i mean cars!nothing in mine please) ((not that theres anything wrong with that,little sienfeld joke)) just well put.can't wait for the answers i hope there easy to understand and follow.come on guys show us what you know!

 

i'd recommend the true trac for a street vehicle. the clutch based units will eventually wear out, the lockers are really loud in my opinion. the true trac technology is used in many current automobiles and is maintenance free. on my versailles rear, they did not require any special bearings.

 

I keep hearing good things about True Tracs from all the guys I talk to locally. Several are running them in their street/strip cars and I didn't even notice it in the guys car I was driving a couple months ago.

I'm planning on getting one, and it looks like you can get a drop-in carrier for about 900 on ebay with the true trac all ready to go. Of course it'll probably take me a few years to getting around to getting one, unless I decide to pick up a second job.

 

Couple of votes for the True Trac... Anyone ever install one in an 8" diff?

 

I have a powertrax no slip in my car, it works great! I can't hear it ratchet when making turns due to my exhaust, if you have louder mufflers you probably won't hear it either. I hear the cheaper loc-rights are louder and weaker so if your making lots of power you may want to look at something else.

 

Thanks. Desktop Dyno, and Comp Camquest, (neither of which is a substitute for a real dyno, but it's all I have to go on right now) both say I should be putting out around 375HP and 420 lb/ft of torque, for whatever that's worth. Also have a 2500 stall.

I don't think my car's too loud but my wife and her pictures on the wall opposite the garage seem to disagree. Complain, complain... (Long tube headers, Summit 2-chamber race mufflers, 2.5" pipes turned down at the axle.)

 

I bought the Traction-Lok off ebay and paid an expert $100 to install it using my old 3.00 gears. As for the cost of bearings, I think its a good idea to install new wheel and carrier bearings no matter which way you go.

You probably know the bearings are pressed on so, unless you have a press, plan on a trip to a shop if you do the job yourself and change bearings.

I love the TL, both on the street and at the strip with drag radials. The only time I know its there and working is when both tires break loose or, when making a sharp turn and I push it a little the inside tire will chirp. Don't mind that chirp at all.

The TL required new, longer bolts so check that out when you're pricing options.

 

I have a Lock Right power trax in my truck. It was easy to install even though ive never had a rear axle part before then. It is kind of loud but has worked great for 15 years. I have an Auborn limited slip in my Maverick. it is in a 9 inchI had custom made though so I didnt have any hand in installing it. I can say it works great, is silent and you cant even tell its there until you hammer and get both wheels to spin.

 

I'm not really bothered by putting new bearings in, I will do that anyway, but I am bothered a little by some of these manufacturers saying "You need our super special bearing kit for $109.95!" when they could have said, "Hey, we didn't want to machine this part for two different applications so you need to use 9" carrier bearings."

Either way, not a huge deal. I'm not trying to cheap out and use 40 year old bearings when I'm already spending about $500 on whatever locker/LSD I get, but I don't like the dishonesty. Rockauto lists those bearings for $7.35.

So, that Powertrax No-Slip is on sale at Summit. MaverickDan likes his. Anybody else have experience with that one?

 

Powertrax No-Slip and Detroit locker here...both were/and are quite...

...street tires will be your weakest link...

 

Can you still get the ARB Air Locker for 8 inch axles? That one you can engage and disengage at will. True locker. Flip the switch when not needed. The 4-by guys loved 'em.

 

Detroit locker installed by the rear end shop in Livermore, ca.

it works everytime I floor it. clunks, ratchets and makes all kinds of horrible noises, but man when I step on it, both tires always always spin.

 

drew youve got it pretty well figured out.

sense you seem to want your car nice and friendly with low maintenance i would recommend the true trac.

you will know the locker is in the car every time you turn and apply or let off of the gas.

the clutch lsd, trac loc, auburn, ect... work great but require an oil additive and will eventually wear out.

a spool or minspool will be no fun in turns or wet weather unless you want to be a professional drifter.

the special bearings are no big deal. i have the part numbers if you need them. most auto parts stores will have them if the unit you choose requires them. auburn gives you the part number in their instructions

for a ford trac lock you need 1/4" longer ring gear bolts and thin washers.

i think its easier to change the whole carrier than putting in a "lunch box" locker. you still have to unbolt the ring gear and remove it to be able to split the differential case and cross shaft.

you will want to have a magnetic base dial indicator and measure the back lash of the ring gear to pinion gear before you take it apart. mark the caps so you dont mix them up.
make sure all the threads are oil free and use red lock tite on all the bolts when reassembling.

does this cover it all for you?

 

I swapped the clutch-type stock differential in my Ram 1500 with a truetrac, and it has been flawless. No noise, great traction, no maintenance other than periodic fluid changes.

As soon as I get my maverick put back together, I am taking the pumpkin out and taking it to the same shop, and letting them swap my spool out for a truetrac for the 8".

Any other car I ever use in the future will get one, as well.

A bit more expensive, by $50-100, but for me, worth every penny.